amp draw of LT1 starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,725
From: Little Rock, AR
Normally a starter is not behind any circuit breaker. It is directly connected to the battery, so it can get plenty of juice. When I just did a search about required starter amps, one random place said it can be up to 500 amps. Think of those CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) ratings they put on batteries.
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,405
From: Kantuckee Yo'
Agree with shoe.
There is no breaker on the starter wires. Peak current will spike stupid high like stated above and then level out around 50 amps once the motor is turning. Any breaker is going to pop nearly every time.
Rule of thumb on big guage wires without breakers, make them as short as possible.
For cars that have batteries in the trunk. They tend to use slow blow fusable links as opposed to breakers which again, tend to pop when spiked.
There is no breaker on the starter wires. Peak current will spike stupid high like stated above and then level out around 50 amps once the motor is turning. Any breaker is going to pop nearly every time.
Rule of thumb on big guage wires without breakers, make them as short as possible.
For cars that have batteries in the trunk. They tend to use slow blow fusable links as opposed to breakers which again, tend to pop when spiked.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,277
From: Phoenix, AZ
Agree with shoe.
There is no breaker on the starter wires. Peak current will spike stupid high like stated above and then level out around 50 amps once the motor is turning. Any breaker is going to pop nearly every time.
Rule of thumb on big guage wires without breakers, make them as short as possible.
For cars that have batteries in the trunk. They tend to use slow blow fusable links as opposed to breakers which again, tend to pop when spiked.
There is no breaker on the starter wires. Peak current will spike stupid high like stated above and then level out around 50 amps once the motor is turning. Any breaker is going to pop nearly every time.
Rule of thumb on big guage wires without breakers, make them as short as possible.
For cars that have batteries in the trunk. They tend to use slow blow fusable links as opposed to breakers which again, tend to pop when spiked.
Thanks for the advice. I think I will go without a CB.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,154
From: VA
Bad idea. Electrical fires in cars are neither fun nor cheap. BTGTTS...
A quick google search shows people using 100 and 140 A breakers for battery relocation, but mostly on smaller engines.
Another option google turned up is to add a starter relay in the trunk.
A quick google search shows people using 100 and 140 A breakers for battery relocation, but mostly on smaller engines.
Another option google turned up is to add a starter relay in the trunk.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,277
From: Phoenix, AZ
Another option then is to put 2 X 100 amp CB's in series and then have a 3rd prepared to wire up if that still is not enough. Man, wiring is a lot of work. Thank god I am at least trying to plan it out and develop a schematic first.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 134
From: culleoka, tn. 38451
just a question-why are you wanting to put circuit protection in a +12 feed to the starter? run a solenoid (think ford setup) and be happy with it. that setup has been a safe approach for a long time.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,277
From: Phoenix, AZ
I looked up solenoids but was wondering what kind of amp draw was needed to close the circuit. Would just a standard feed of 12 gauge wire carry enough juice to close that big solenoid?
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
If you look at the LT1 from the factory, it has a small purple wire going to the control side(coil) of the solenoid. Probably around 16 or 18 gage. The other which provides the cranking power(contact side) from the battery is probably 4 gage or slightly larger. The farther you run the main power wire to the contacts, the larger the size it will have to be.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 134
From: culleoka, tn. 38451
yes a 12 ga wire will close the solenoid. you also have to jumper your factory gm starter from the 12v battery to the "s" (start) terminal on the original solenoid with a 12-10 gauge wire. that jumper is permanent when you run a ford type remote solenoid. you have to do this because the once constant 12 battery cable to the starter will only become energized when you close the new ford type solenoid. i do believe i am explaining what you already are aware of. run the old "s" wire to the new remote solenoid. you are in business.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 11
Just did a battery relocate that cost almost $1000. Anyone who says that you o not need circuit protection or that it is overkill is an idiot! I actually like my car, so I go overkill on everything, that is what hot rodding is about, not skimping to save time!
You need to run:
-4G alt wire w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to Fuse Box w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to starter
Use trunk mounted Ford solenoid so the starter wire is not hot and if you're using a master cut-off, wire it so that it shuts down the fuse box (not the alt.)
You need to run:
-4G alt wire w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to Fuse Box w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to starter
Use trunk mounted Ford solenoid so the starter wire is not hot and if you're using a master cut-off, wire it so that it shuts down the fuse box (not the alt.)
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,497
From: Orem, UT
Administrator
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,094
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Just did a battery relocate that cost almost $1000. Anyone who says that you o not need circuit protection or that it is overkill is an idiot! I actually like my car, so I go overkill on everything, that is what hot rodding is about, not skimping to save time!
You need to run:
-4G alt wire w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to Fuse Box w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to starter
Use trunk mounted Ford solenoid so the starter wire is not hot and if you're using a master cut-off, wire it so that it shuts down the fuse box (not the alt.)
You need to run:
-4G alt wire w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to Fuse Box w/ 150A circuit breaker (avail. at NAPA or even AutoZone)
-1G Wire to starter
Use trunk mounted Ford solenoid so the starter wire is not hot and if you're using a master cut-off, wire it so that it shuts down the fuse box (not the alt.)