All Hail The Mighty Arp Header Bolts!!!
All Hail The Mighty Arp Header Bolts!!!
Finally got rid of the junk Stage 8 locking bolts for ARP 3/8 hex header bolts.
I have Hooker LT's and blew a header gasket on the pass. side from the #2 primary bolts coming loose quite often. I could not torque them as tight as I would've liked due to the lack of room and for having to use an allen wrench on the front bolt. At the time I installed them ('99) Stage 8's were all the talk. I'd only heard one suggestion on using ARP's and I decided to listen to the majority.
From what I can remember some of the bolts on the passenger side were pretty hard to start a bolt straight. Especially the #6 primary. Today it took no more than 5 minutes to get all the bolts started and maybe another 15 to torque them all down whereas before, having to use an open end 7/16 and allen wrench and not being able to get a good bite w/ either one of them on the 1st bolt on the #2 primary or the last bolt on the #7 primary, it took about forever to get them torqued to spec.
I know, this is probably old news to some but I'm just sharing the joy. Now I can torque the drivers side in a matter of 2 minutes using a socket wrench. UNHEARD OF! The pass. side take a bit longer since an open end and box end have to be changed around a few times on some of the bolts. No matter. I'm slap happy right now. I wish I would've done this sooner.
Just a suggestion but if anyone is considering headers ARP 3/8" bolts should be the only way to go.
I have Hooker LT's and blew a header gasket on the pass. side from the #2 primary bolts coming loose quite often. I could not torque them as tight as I would've liked due to the lack of room and for having to use an allen wrench on the front bolt. At the time I installed them ('99) Stage 8's were all the talk. I'd only heard one suggestion on using ARP's and I decided to listen to the majority.
From what I can remember some of the bolts on the passenger side were pretty hard to start a bolt straight. Especially the #6 primary. Today it took no more than 5 minutes to get all the bolts started and maybe another 15 to torque them all down whereas before, having to use an open end 7/16 and allen wrench and not being able to get a good bite w/ either one of them on the 1st bolt on the #2 primary or the last bolt on the #7 primary, it took about forever to get them torqued to spec.
I know, this is probably old news to some but I'm just sharing the joy. Now I can torque the drivers side in a matter of 2 minutes using a socket wrench. UNHEARD OF! The pass. side take a bit longer since an open end and box end have to be changed around a few times on some of the bolts. No matter. I'm slap happy right now. I wish I would've done this sooner.
Just a suggestion but if anyone is considering headers ARP 3/8" bolts should be the only way to go.
Didn't your Stage 8's have hex head as well? Mine do:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...s/stage8-1.jpg
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...s/stage8-1.jpg
I went with ARP's because I didn't want to dink with having to get the little clips on the bolts and whatnot...Im happy I did too
I haven't had a bit of trouble with my ARP's and I can tighten every bolt except 3 with a regular 3/8 box wrench. I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
I haven't had a bit of trouble with my ARP's and I can tighten every bolt except 3 with a regular 3/8 box wrench. I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
Originally posted by magius231
I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
Originally posted by Dave88LX
Didn't your Stage 8's have hex head as well? Mine do:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...s/stage8-1.jpg
Didn't your Stage 8's have hex head as well? Mine do:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...s/stage8-1.jpg
I noticed the head bolts that are stock, some are bolts, while some others are bolts w/ studs...is the ARP kit like that as well? How much was it?
Thats EXACTLY why I like my locking stage 8's. I havent checked them in 8 or 9 months, and I know theyre ok
With the ARP's, it doesn't matter. LOL Anymore I don't mind if any of the bolts come lose since I know in some cases it will take seconds to retorque them.
Originally posted by SS RRR
No the ARP bolts are all bolts. No studs. $16.00 from Summit P/N APR-400-1101.
No the ARP bolts are all bolts. No studs. $16.00 from Summit P/N APR-400-1101.
Originally posted by magius231
I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
Bryan
there was a bracket that supported the radiator off of one of the factory studs. 'Course, that's been long gone for a while now. I only use the accessory bracket to hold/support my alternator
.
And Brian... Yes. I got your message.. And yes.. I was sleeping
. I use summit 3/8 head 1inch long stainless bolts and they work great also
.And Brian... Yes. I got your message.. And yes.. I was sleeping
. I use summit 3/8 head 1inch long stainless bolts and they work great also


