LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

All Hail The Mighty Arp Header Bolts!!!

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Old Apr 27, 2003 | 10:46 AM
  #1  
SS RRR's Avatar
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From: Jackstandican
All Hail The Mighty Arp Header Bolts!!!

Finally got rid of the junk Stage 8 locking bolts for ARP 3/8 hex header bolts.
I have Hooker LT's and blew a header gasket on the pass. side from the #2 primary bolts coming loose quite often. I could not torque them as tight as I would've liked due to the lack of room and for having to use an allen wrench on the front bolt. At the time I installed them ('99) Stage 8's were all the talk. I'd only heard one suggestion on using ARP's and I decided to listen to the majority.
From what I can remember some of the bolts on the passenger side were pretty hard to start a bolt straight. Especially the #6 primary. Today it took no more than 5 minutes to get all the bolts started and maybe another 15 to torque them all down whereas before, having to use an open end 7/16 and allen wrench and not being able to get a good bite w/ either one of them on the 1st bolt on the #2 primary or the last bolt on the #7 primary, it took about forever to get them torqued to spec.
I know, this is probably old news to some but I'm just sharing the joy. Now I can torque the drivers side in a matter of 2 minutes using a socket wrench. UNHEARD OF! The pass. side take a bit longer since an open end and box end have to be changed around a few times on some of the bolts. No matter. I'm slap happy right now. I wish I would've done this sooner.
Just a suggestion but if anyone is considering headers ARP 3/8" bolts should be the only way to go.
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 10:51 AM
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Don 97 SS's Avatar
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Great! I'm glad I took the same advice over 5 years ago when I the headers went on. I've had no trouble from my ARPs. I have leak free headers.
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 12:26 PM
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Same here !!!!!!
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 01:56 PM
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Nothing wring with my Stage 8s ...have killer access to all of the bolts except for #2 on my Jet Hot long tubes. =)

-B
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 01:59 PM
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Didn't your Stage 8's have hex head as well? Mine do:

http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...s/stage8-1.jpg
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 02:10 PM
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I went with ARP's because I didn't want to dink with having to get the little clips on the bolts and whatnot...Im happy I did too I haven't had a bit of trouble with my ARP's and I can tighten every bolt except 3 with a regular 3/8 box wrench. I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 02:13 PM
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I noticed the head bolts that are stock, some are bolts, while some others are bolts w/ studs...is the ARP kit like that as well? How much was it?
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 04:23 PM
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Originally posted by magius231
I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
Thats EXACTLY why I like my locking stage 8's. I havent checked them in 8 or 9 months, and I know theyre ok
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 05:59 PM
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From: Jackstandican
Originally posted by Dave88LX
Didn't your Stage 8's have hex head as well? Mine do:

http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...s/stage8-1.jpg
Yes they are exactly like that. But because the 7/16 bolt head is large along w/ my Hooker 1 3/4" primaries it is impossible to use the lock washers much less fit a wrench around some of them and that is the only advantage a Stage 8 bolt will have against ARP is the lock washers if you can use them on your application. Since most can't then it's nothing more than a stainless steel header bolt like the ARP.
I noticed the head bolts that are stock, some are bolts, while some others are bolts w/ studs...is the ARP kit like that as well? How much was it?
No the ARP bolts are all bolts. No studs. $16.00 from Summit P/N APR-400-1101.
Thats EXACTLY why I like my locking stage 8's. I havent checked them in 8 or 9 months, and I know theyre ok
Yeah.. my Stage 8's were good like that for awhile until about a year ago the number 2 primary bolts were starting to come loose. No matter what I did to tighten those two bolts, nothing seemed to help. Perhaps I had forgotten the technique to reach them, get a good grip and torque them.
With the ARP's, it doesn't matter. LOL Anymore I don't mind if any of the bolts come lose since I know in some cases it will take seconds to retorque them.
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 09:02 PM
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Originally posted by SS RRR


No the ARP bolts are all bolts. No studs. $16.00 from Summit P/N APR-400-1101.
At this point, I can't remember what attached to the studs, but is it anything important that you can recall?
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 09:24 PM
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Originally posted by magius231
I check them once a week and they really don't even loosen either.
I checked mine a couple times for a week after the install. They loosened alittle but nothing major. After a week they stayed put. I check them every once in awhile and they are still tight. I see no need to check them every week. I had Stage 8s and didn't like them. Like 3 of the locks actually fit and they were a PITA to tighten. 12 point header bolts are the only way to fly IMO.

Bryan
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 09:33 PM
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What I didi with my stage 8 header locks is just get some dikes (Diagonal cutters), and just cut where you need to. It's soft enough to cut no problem.
Old Apr 27, 2003 | 11:13 PM
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From: Jackstandican
Originally posted by Dave88LX
At this point, I can't remember what attached to the studs, but is it anything important that you can recall?
Sorry man.. I can't remember.
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 12:20 AM
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I've heard only good about ARPs. I went with Stage 8s and I'm completely happy with them. I think either is a fine product. But I never have to think about mine coming loose.
Old Apr 28, 2003 | 01:18 AM
  #15  
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there was a bracket that supported the radiator off of one of the factory studs. 'Course, that's been long gone for a while now. I only use the accessory bracket to hold/support my alternator .

And Brian... Yes. I got your message.. And yes.. I was sleeping . I use summit 3/8 head 1inch long stainless bolts and they work great also



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