Ok here's my situation. My AIR has been removed and I'm now getting the dreaded SES. I read a post some time ago about a resistor to trick the ECM so that it wont throw an SES. Has anyone ever heard of this and if so, what kind and where does it go? I'd really appreciate any replies, I have to get my car through emissions in April.

Thanks,
Rich T

 

Do you have the AIR fuse in?

 

old link

100 ohm 10 watt resistor

That's for my 1994 OBD-I car, yours may be different, OBD-II is wired differently. Measured the AIR pump setup with a multimeter, helped figure out exactly what resistor to get, to "look" like the AIR system. You could try the 100 ohm 10 watt.

And again, your PCM wire harness is completely different, so you'll need to figure out what wires are what. I used my Haynes, it has schematics in the back.

The resistor will go inbetween the PCM and a 12 volt power, I'm pretty sure... The AIR pin on the PCM was a ground.

My resistor is inbetween the AIR pump relay and the PCM. Under the fuse box, I found the wire that went to the PCM and spliced the resistor in there. Came from the #85 pin on my relay. Do you still have the relay plugged in? You could also splice into the wire near the PCM.

 

Ok , for the first question yes the AIR fuse is still in and good. And yes the relay is still in as well. If I go out and get a hanes book which wire am i looking to splice into? Also did you say you spliced in under the fuse box that is under the hood? Man I hope this works!

Thanks for you guys input.


Rich T

 

Ok, so far I took apart the fuse block and on the air pump relay I found 4 wires:
1 is Red 2 is orange 3 is brown 4 is orange. now did you just put the rsistor in the middle of the wire going to the pcm? from what i can tell the brown wire in the hanes book shows it coming from the pcm. is this the one i want to use?

 

I sent you a PM. And yep, that sounds like the right wire. Solder the resistor in there, see what happens. Is that brown wire connected to pin # 85 on the relay? I'll bet it is.

 

Just wanted to give you an update on my ses light. After putting the resistor to the brown wire which was number 85, the ses light came back on. But after having in scanned at Auto Zone it turned to be code 300 (engine miss-fire) and code 400 (EGR valve). So the resistor trick worked. Is there a resistor that can get rid of the EGR light? Thanks for the help.

I tried to PM you but your mail box was full. I just wanted to let you know that I appreciated the help.

Rich T.

 

I'll have to delete some PMs...

I wish OBD-I had misfire codes, that would be nice.

Good news. So it was giving you an AIR code, now it's not? Sweet. Or was it never the AIR system? Did you have it scanned before, and it gave an AIR system error?

Yeah, there is probably a resistor for the EGR. I haven't done my !EGR mod yet, although I have block off plates sitting here. It doesn't have a relay or anything to use, so I'll probably just remove the system, then tune it out with TunerCat. I used the resistor on the AIR pump, because it's now my waterpump... so if it blows a fuse and stops working, it should show the SES light.

I can find the multimeter and try to measure my EGR, see what comes up. Did you remove the EGR yet?

 

Yeah I was getting the AIR code and now thanks to you its gone! I originally thought the egr was bad but now I actually thought about it and I think it threw the SES when I removed the vacuum from it. I had a 2000 rpm miss that now I think is from the wires and misfiring, so I had unhooked the egr vacuum line throwing a light. But if I remember correctly wont the code stay in the computer even if I remove the battery fuse to reset the SES? So when I had it scanned again I think it was from when I had manually unhooked it???? Well hopefully things work out, right now the car is getting new header gaskets,plugs and wires installed. After that I'm heading back to emissions! Should I even worry about the removing the EGR if it is still working? I've heard of it making the car run a little warmer.

Alright I'm done for now, thanks again and I'll talk to you later!

Rich T

 

Cool.

Probably not, it's not in the way of much. I should have removed mine when I did headers and was having problems with the EGR tube. I ended up chopping mine up and getting a new one, when I should have got the EGR block off plates, would have been easier.

Removing the AIR system is a good idea to me though, it cleans up so much space, and makes changing plugs easier.