Air Pump Relay gone Bad? SES light. Help Please
Well my Air Pump relay is apparently bad. Where can i find another one? And what part number might it be?
Also, When you turn on the ignition key, should the air pump be running? I followed the instructions in my haynes manual for checking it and when i put a wire between the connectors for the relay, the air pump kicks on. But when i put the relay back in the air pump doesnt come on.
So would this be a bad realy? My Air Pump fuse also keeps blowing up, and this in turn throws a SES light.
Also, are the Air Pump and EGR valve related?
Thanks
Also, When you turn on the ignition key, should the air pump be running? I followed the instructions in my haynes manual for checking it and when i put a wire between the connectors for the relay, the air pump kicks on. But when i put the relay back in the air pump doesnt come on.
So would this be a bad realy? My Air Pump fuse also keeps blowing up, and this in turn throws a SES light.
Also, are the Air Pump and EGR valve related?
Thanks
Swap your air pump relay with the fog lamp relay. See if either/both work. That will help you prove your relay.
The air pump only runs when the engine is running and under certain circumstances-mostly when the engine is cool.
Does the fuse blow with the relay out?
The AIR pump and EGR are totally different systems and don't interact with each other.
The air pump only runs when the engine is running and under certain circumstances-mostly when the engine is cool.
Does the fuse blow with the relay out?
The AIR pump and EGR are totally different systems and don't interact with each other.
Hey man, the AIR pump is used to combust exhuast gases in the exhaust manifold by pumping fresh oxygen into the hot exhaust to create another combustion. This helps lower polutants in the exhaust, and warms up the cat quicker. The EGR recurculates exhuast back into the cumbustion chamber. The both have the same common goal of lowering the amount of NOx entering the atmosphere. NOx is created by an incomplete burn off the entire mixture. The more times we get to reburn it, the more we can remove the NOx from the exhaust. You should be able to get that relay and pump from Napa or autozone. If they dont have it you'll have to check out the dealer. hope this helps man,
-Paul
-Paul
Ok, Well i think i might of just put my foot in my mouth.
I replaced the fog light relay with the AIR relay and the fog lights did come on. Also, I checked that fuse for the AIR pump and apparently it is still good.
So, the AIR pump runs when the engine is cold? In the haynes manual it says to test it when the engine is at operating teperature. It says "the ECM/PCM turns the AIR pump on when the coolant temperature has reached 59 degrees-F or until the system enters closed loop mode."
So does this mean that it runs all the time untill in closed loop mode?
What is Closed Loop Mode?
Also, it says to check the pump when the engine is at normal operating temperature and when the idle is raised above 2850 rpm the AIR system should turn off. So does this mean that under 2850 the AIR system should always be on?
thanks
I replaced the fog light relay with the AIR relay and the fog lights did come on. Also, I checked that fuse for the AIR pump and apparently it is still good.
So, the AIR pump runs when the engine is cold? In the haynes manual it says to test it when the engine is at operating teperature. It says "the ECM/PCM turns the AIR pump on when the coolant temperature has reached 59 degrees-F or until the system enters closed loop mode."
So does this mean that it runs all the time untill in closed loop mode?
What is Closed Loop Mode?
Also, it says to check the pump when the engine is at normal operating temperature and when the idle is raised above 2850 rpm the AIR system should turn off. So does this mean that under 2850 the AIR system should always be on?
thanks
Yes, the engine temp must be at least 59º. The pump will go off when it reaches closed loop (generally, when the engine reaches ~140º or so, excluding other factors). So, I don't know what the Haynes manual means about testing when the engine is at operating temp
.
Closed loop is when the pcm starts using the O2 sensors for input to regulate the fuel delivery.
If the pump is on and rpm reaches 2825, it will shut off. There are at least 11 different parameters that, if met, will cause the pump to shut off.
The pump will normally come on when you first start the car. If no other conditions are met, it will run for a maximum of 4 minutes, even if you don't reach closed loop by then.
.Closed loop is when the pcm starts using the O2 sensors for input to regulate the fuel delivery.
If the pump is on and rpm reaches 2825, it will shut off. There are at least 11 different parameters that, if met, will cause the pump to shut off.
The pump will normally come on when you first start the car. If no other conditions are met, it will run for a maximum of 4 minutes, even if you don't reach closed loop by then.
I have the Haynes Manual and I managed to find the Chiltons Manual, the Haynes is not as good, IMO, so I recommend getting the Chiltons...when I compared procedures and such with both Chiltons told me some stuff sometimes that Haynes didn't that kinda helped me out with the work.
It told me some other steps and precautions in disarming the SRS Air Bag system so I could replace my steering wheel. So I just like the Chiltons better, plus it's like twice the thickiness.
My AIR pump just went bad so i'm trying to figure out whether I need it or not, I kinda just wanna get rid of it, if anyone has any helpful ideas on how to do this and any imput on the idea please let me know. Thanks
It told me some other steps and precautions in disarming the SRS Air Bag system so I could replace my steering wheel. So I just like the Chiltons better, plus it's like twice the thickiness.
My AIR pump just went bad so i'm trying to figure out whether I need it or not, I kinda just wanna get rid of it, if anyone has any helpful ideas on how to do this and any imput on the idea please let me know. Thanks
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