tube and valve.
block off plates will cover up both holes.

 

what did you use to block the vacuum line on the intake manifold.
-b

 

I removed EGR and AIR and have had zero issues. And to answer your question, I removed the EGR hoses and valves - the whole system. With AIR, I removed the pump and the hoses that connect to it, but left the selenoid (sp) that is located near the front of the driver side valve cover. I had read that you are supposed to leave this so I did and I dont even throw a code for the !AIR (not sure if this is because I left the selenoid but I'm not complaining )

 

would it throw throw the !AIR code on a obd1?

 

On the OBD-I cars, you can unplug the harness connector from the AIR pump. As long as there is a good fuse in the circuit, you will not set a code. OBD-II includes flow detection, and its more likely that it will set a code. Obviously, it doesn't set it 100% of the time, per the post above.

 

so if i dont have emissions is it worth it to take out air and egr and go with no emissions headers and no cat?

 

As Injunneer said it doesn't help performance. Your only gain is that of the hassle in hooking the pipes back up.

 

You get a little weight reduction from taking the two out, not much.

Btw, it gives you room for other mods say for example forced induction.

 

Does anyone know a good web page where they show how to remove the AIR and EGR?

 

Ditto on that. I'm getting a set of used headers and they don't have AIR or EGR, so I guess I might as well pull it out if I'm not going to hook it back up. If someone has instructions on how to do that I'd appreciate it.

 

I don't know of a how to..but it really isn't difficult.

Just take out the pump and connections..tubing ect.

Plug up the holes.

Get or make block off plates.

Use high temp rtv were you can't use a gasket.

If you remove the egr valve you need to get it tunned out of your computer if it's a 93-95.
-b