Air Check Valve, Where is it?
look on the passenger side exhaust manifold towards the front of the car and look directly above the manifold, that thing you see is the check valve and as far as getting it off have fun because its not easy trying to get something out of a cast iron exhaust manifold after 10+ year
what i did to get mine out was disconnect the rubber hose that goes to the air pump and try to rotate the check valve back and forth that should loosen up the rust some and then you should be able to get the fitting off the manifold fairly easily... also pj blaster is your friend if you dont got some get some
and as far as making sure it works alright you should be able to blow through it from the air injection side of it but you shouldn't be able to get any air through it from the manifold side if i were you i would just replace it because i believe they are only like 10 bucks from advance auto
what i did to get mine out was disconnect the rubber hose that goes to the air pump and try to rotate the check valve back and forth that should loosen up the rust some and then you should be able to get the fitting off the manifold fairly easily... also pj blaster is your friend if you dont got some get some
and as far as making sure it works alright you should be able to blow through it from the air injection side of it but you shouldn't be able to get any air through it from the manifold side if i were you i would just replace it because i believe they are only like 10 bucks from advance auto
look on the passenger side exhaust manifold towards the front of the car and look directly above the manifold, that thing you see is the check valve and as far as getting it off have fun because its not easy trying to get something out of a cast iron exhaust manifold after 10+ year
what i did to get mine out was disconnect the rubber hose that goes to the air pump and try to rotate the check valve back and forth that should loosen up the rust some and then you should be able to get the fitting off the manifold fairly easily... also pj blaster is your friend if you dont got some get some
and as far as making sure it works alright you should be able to blow through it from the air injection side of it but you shouldn't be able to get any air through it from the manifold side if i were you i would just replace it because i believe they are only like 10 bucks from advance auto
what i did to get mine out was disconnect the rubber hose that goes to the air pump and try to rotate the check valve back and forth that should loosen up the rust some and then you should be able to get the fitting off the manifold fairly easily... also pj blaster is your friend if you dont got some get some
and as far as making sure it works alright you should be able to blow through it from the air injection side of it but you shouldn't be able to get any air through it from the manifold side if i were you i would just replace it because i believe they are only like 10 bucks from advance auto
Shoebox has pictures......
http://shbox.com/1/diverters.jpg
I thought P1416 set when the PCM cycled the AIR pump, and didn't see a corresponding change in the O2 sensor reading on that side of the engine. Could be a faulty check valve (stuck closed), could be a burned hose on that side, caused by a faulty check valve (stuck open).
http://shbox.com/1/diverters.jpg
I thought P1416 set when the PCM cycled the AIR pump, and didn't see a corresponding change in the O2 sensor reading on that side of the engine. Could be a faulty check valve (stuck closed), could be a burned hose on that side, caused by a faulty check valve (stuck open).
Ya so whoever said replacing a checkvalve is an easy job they must have been talking about a brand new lt1, not a 12 year old one. I had two crescent wrenches, one on the check valve and another on the fitting to hold it from twising. Had a pipe extending the wrench handle on the check valve side. And could not get the damn thing to budge. Oh yea lots of pb blaster as well...
end result... ended up twising that metal tube which goes into the header. ****ing great. Now what the **** do I do? I just want to get that error code gone for emissions, would getting my computer tuned to remove air not work? Someone said something about it leaving a "not ready" code..wtf?
end result... ended up twising that metal tube which goes into the header. ****ing great. Now what the **** do I do? I just want to get that error code gone for emissions, would getting my computer tuned to remove air not work? Someone said something about it leaving a "not ready" code..wtf?
Ya so whoever said replacing a checkvalve is an easy job they must have been talking about a brand new lt1, not a 12 year old one. I had two crescent wrenches, one on the check valve and another on the fitting to hold it from twising. Had a pipe extending the wrench handle on the check valve side. And could not get the damn thing to budge. Oh yea lots of pb blaster as well...
end result... ended up twising that metal tube which goes into the header. ****ing great. Now what the **** do I do? I just want to get that error code gone for emissions, would getting my computer tuned to remove air not work? Someone said something about it leaving a "not ready" code..wtf?
end result... ended up twising that metal tube which goes into the header. ****ing great. Now what the **** do I do? I just want to get that error code gone for emissions, would getting my computer tuned to remove air not work? Someone said something about it leaving a "not ready" code..wtf?
well I will try that tommrow, the metal pipe thing which connects to the header is twisted like a candy cane now but It seems like it would still flow air fairly decently. Would it really be a problem? Is there even a part number for this? Let alone itd be nearly impossible to remove from the header since there is no room for a wrench
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