Get yourself some MArch Pullies... bolt it on and go. for 90 bux you get the complete set and it makes a difference. Unless you want to wast $$$ and get the 4XX versions that will do just about the same I'd say go ahead. Pullies arent a big HP mode on LT-1's so it be around the same either way... as for weight it's a big chuck of aluminum... not steel... doesn't weigh much at all... and as far as the crank geos you want to have a good measurement of weight on there...

PEace!

 

Ok wait a minute, where did you find pullies that cost in the 400 dollar range.......your right no one in thier right mind would spend that much on pullies. And why would you want more weight on the crank, less rotating mass is a good thing....I know its Saturday night and all but you need to lay off the liquor man cause that post you made doesnt make a whole lotta sense.

 

sweet, so theres a few for ASP and a few for March pullies, whats the difference between the two? Prices/quality/install difficulty (install I cant imagine to be very hard on a pulley ..but anyways.. Thanks for the info guys..also
Where do you go to find these two brands?

 

www.aspracing.com is the official site and there are a few distributors like lmperformance.com and rpmoutlet.com.

The install isnt too bad, just basically removing the belt (easy), unbolting the 3 bolts from crank pulley (may need a breaker bar if they are on tight), removing the passenger side fan (tough to get to upper bolt because upper radiator hose is in the way), 3 jaw puller from auto zone to take off the stock crank pulley......and then install is basically just the reverse.

If you get an alternator pulley then you will need to remove the alternator and use an impact wrench to remove the pulley and put a new one on (auto zone or napa can do it for ya).

I'm not sure how the add on type pulleys work, but I think you have to remove the stock pulley and then the add on goes behind, but I'm not really too sure about that.

Anymore questions I will be glad to help ya out man.

 

Becasue you took it WAAAAYYYY!!!! out of context... but let me slow it down so you can catch it.

One guy said the pullies add weight... My reply was that they are aluminum and don't weigh much. Why did I say weight on the crank isn't a bad thing??? buy yourself an aluminum flywheel and find out. It's maybe a pound or so heavier... otherwise it's not going to hurt anything or make that much of a difference to comment about.

where did I get the price from??? CLICK HERE

 

thanks MarkyMark..Ill check those sites out!
Heatmaker.. i dont think that seems worth $400..but yes it is infact $400! Id rather spend a (short) week in Vegas than put on that Dampner
Oh MarkyMark..its kinda off subject..but I was curious..your 97 Z28 only came with 2.73 gears? Mine is a 94Z with stock 3.42s, I thought they were all lower after 93?

 

Yea mine are the crappy 2.73's they suck big time. They came in 2.73 and 3.23 for the auto's and then 3.23 and 3.42 for the m6 (no 2.73's for m6). That is my next mod gettin some gears and then onto longtubes.

Heatmaker: as far as I know that link you gave me isnt even an underdrive pulley.....it doesn't say it underdrives it at all in that description. It may be a stock replacement but a much much higher quality, but I dont think it is an underdrive pulley. And for the weight thing the asp replacement is actually 2lbs lighter than the stock crank pulley, so if the add on march weighs 1-3 lbs (not sure how much it weighs) than your saving 3-5 lbs off the crank from the difference of asp one to the march one.....seems like a pretty big deal to me, but I'm no expert.

 

The part that everyone is talking about for $400 is a harmonic damper
with two different pulley sizes on it a 4" and a 7". Is it worth the money,
only is you are going to be turning more than 10k rpms

 

Don't forget the guy's with a set of gears. With 3.73's in the rear i usually see between 2200 to 2800rpm.......which will definately mean full charging

Does ASP make a 34% underdrive blancer pulley?? Or is there 34% underdrive just a piggyback style.

 

Is that 15% on the alternator pulley mean they are underdriving it or overdriving it. It appears they are saying underdriveing it......but i don't see why you would want to underdrive the alternator........it really doesn't take that much power to turn it.

 

Alternator pulleys overdrive it to bring the rpm up to a decent charging speed, making up for the lower belt speed from the crank pulley.

 

The March billet aluminum ones look great, so there's a cosmetic gain as well. For those looking at bolt-on only, it's cheap and proven, even though you won't get a whole lot out of it. It's certainly better than buying a 300 dollar granatelli maf.

 

Mark,
looking at ASP's website, which % pulleys did you buy? Or better yet, tell me the full charge RPM because it is different for each set. Where did you buy yours from?
Thanks.

EDIT: 23% Crank 15% Alternator - 900 RPM ?

 

I bought mine from lmperformance.com and am happy with the speedy delivery I got from them.

ION: at first I got the 25% and 15% which was 900 rpm, but even with a brand new 160 amp alternator I couldn't keep the battery charged very good.....so I took off the 15% alternator pulley and then put the stock sized one back on along with a different sized belt (the one that asp reccomends) and my battery is staying charged all the time now and is much better. ASP945100 that is the part number I now have since I have taken off the alternator pulley. Oh and if anyone wants the alternator pulley that is underdriven and not overdriven by 15%...then I will sell it for 10 dollars shipped.

 

If that is the alternator pulley that comes in the kit I mentioned, then I will take it.

My car idles at 900/950 so it should be OK. I don't like pulleys myself, but I would like to give this setup a try since it's the first one I see that replaced the whole balancer. (I am planning to dyno it of course, to see what and if there are any improvements)