Aftermarket LT1 Crank Part #'s
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 877
From: B'ville
Aftermarket LT1 Crank Part #'s
Hey guy's,
I'm looking to replace my stock LT1 crank with an aftermarket unit from Scat, or Eagle along with 6" rods and .030 srp pistons. The problem I'm having is locating a part number for the crank, I'm leaning towards the scat 9000 pro comp light weight series steel crank. They gave this number
9-350-3480-5700L, and a short part# for another crank 9-10526. Although I feel the guy's at scat didn't know quite sure. I'm in square one again. Any help would be great, or current setups that you 355 guys are running will be great, part numbers etc.. etc.. let me know so I can have an Idea of what parts to order.
Thanx
I'm looking to replace my stock LT1 crank with an aftermarket unit from Scat, or Eagle along with 6" rods and .030 srp pistons. The problem I'm having is locating a part number for the crank, I'm leaning towards the scat 9000 pro comp light weight series steel crank. They gave this number
9-350-3480-5700L, and a short part# for another crank 9-10526. Although I feel the guy's at scat didn't know quite sure. I'm in square one again. Any help would be great, or current setups that you 355 guys are running will be great, part numbers etc.. etc.. let me know so I can have an Idea of what parts to order.
Thanx
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,152
From: Bahrain
Re: Aftermarket LT1 Crank Part #'s
There is no specific crank for the LT1. It's a one piece rear main seal crank just like any small block from 1987 and above. The number you gave seems to be the correct one which is a 3.48" stroke clearanced for 5.7" rods. The smaller rods requiere more clearance so this crank should work with the 6" rods.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 877
From: B'ville
Re: Aftermarket LT1 Crank Part #'s
So any 1 pc rear main seal crank will work my the 95 LT1. Would I be able to get it balanced internally in the front and external in the back at any good machine shop??? I'm a little lost here.
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
Re: Aftermarket LT1 Crank Part #'s
Most people who are upgrading the rotating assembly get it internally balanced and replace the stock flywheel/flexplate with a zero balanced unit. The harmonic damper (at the front) is neutral balanced anyway, if you decide to reuse it. Of course, you can have the rotating assy. balanced against the stock flywheel/flexplate if you so choose.
It is often best to have the shop doing the machine work buy the parts. You'd be surprised how often a customer will buy parts with varying degrees of incompatibility that will need to be fixed or returned/replaced at their expense. Many good shops won't work on customer supplied parts or will not warranty the work on them. In any case, the most convenient and often cheapest method is to buy a complete, balanced rotating assembly as a unit. The medium and high end companies all offer complete assemblies. Don't know about the cheap Chinese stuff like Scat and Eagle though.
Keep in mind that balancing can be expensive, especially if the parts are mismatched in the first place. Up to $300 or so is not unheard of.
Rich
It is often best to have the shop doing the machine work buy the parts. You'd be surprised how often a customer will buy parts with varying degrees of incompatibility that will need to be fixed or returned/replaced at their expense. Many good shops won't work on customer supplied parts or will not warranty the work on them. In any case, the most convenient and often cheapest method is to buy a complete, balanced rotating assembly as a unit. The medium and high end companies all offer complete assemblies. Don't know about the cheap Chinese stuff like Scat and Eagle though.
Keep in mind that balancing can be expensive, especially if the parts are mismatched in the first place. Up to $300 or so is not unheard of.
Rich
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