Hey guys.

Just wondering if there is an aftermarket balancer I can run with the lt1. Going to rebuild my shortblock using a stock crank, scat 7/16s forged capscrew 5.7 rods and Mahle forged pistons. Was going to reuse my stock flywheel, after it has been cut, and wanted to buy a new balancer that will be 1pc, and not a hub/balancer deal. Is there such a thing?

I plan on having the motor balanced but need to be close with the parts I get.

Also what about a flywheel. I CAN run a stock one, or, is there a fairly affordable aftermarket flywheel a guy can get, with stock style balance.

Thanks,

Igor.

 

Stock crank is good just send the flywheel with it for balancing. The damper is neutral balance and the hub/damper is what is available for the LT1. I don't know why you think there is something wrong with that arrangement. Perfect for opti swaps.

 

Its not that i think the arrangement sucks, its just that i have a spare short block w/o the dampner but with the flywheel, and wanted to get it all balanced up and ready to swap into the car w/o taking the running car apart.

I wanted to give the balance shop all the parts that will be in the car.

Make sence?

Thanks.

 

But what Dwayne is telling you is that the damper on an LT1 is not a "balancer". It is (or should be) neutral balanced, so it has no affect on balancing the rotating assembly. You could have the shop verify that it is neutral balanced at any time, separate form the rest of the rotating assemlby. There is nothing wrong with a 2-piece damper with separate hub and damper. The ATI Super Damper is about the best one you can buy (IMHO), and its a 2-piece assembly. So is the Fluidampr. What advantage do you see in a 1-piece hub/damper assembly?

Do you need an SFI-rated damper?

 

Ya I understand that it is neutral. I just wanted to give them exactly what will be on the car, that way if it happens to be out in balance or is damaged or whatever it gets seen before assembly or balancing.

No I do not need an SFI rated damper. But as I said I am short a hub/dampener anyway, so would like to buy whatever is available aftermarket and run it.

Thanks.

 

It would be a mistake to balance the engine to an unbalanced damper. You want the rotating assembly balanced on the basis that the damper is neutral balanced. That way, you can replace the damper at any time without needing to rebalance the engine, as you would if you used a damper that is not balanced.

You are over-complicating the whole thing, but if you want to do it that way, there is no harm in doing it. Just make sure they check the damper balance BEFORE they bolt it to the rotating assembly.