Hey whats up everyone. Im swapping an Lt1/T56 combo into my '92 T/A convertible. Only things Im going to be using accessory wise will be the alternator obviously, and the power steering pump, and I just cant see putting all this ugly as bracketry on there just to keep these two items.

On the engine I built for my GTA, Im running the March mid-mount setup for a CSR elect pump, and it looks KILLER. Id like to get something similar for the Lt1, but cant find anything... March only lists a high mount and far side mount for these engines.

Heres a link to the bracketry style Id like to use:
http://www.marchperformance.com/pg63.html

Thanks!

 

I'm right now in the process of doing this myself. I searched far and wide, and the only two companies that I found who made brackets that situated the accessories in such a way that they would clear the hood and not hang out too far to the sides to clear the inner fenderwells were Zoops and Street & Performance.

Here's a link to the alternator bracket I settled on from S&P:

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/onlinecatal...es%2064-73.pdf

It's the pic of the passenger's side alternator bracket lettered "C." The only thing with using this bracket is that you'll need to use a CS130 style alternator that's a "2 O' Clock" mounting configuration and a Corvette balancer.

Here's a link to the Zoops bracket I'm using for power steering:



http://www.zoops.com/product-listing.asp?ID=7&offset=16

$160 for the S&P alternator bracket in chrome, and $125 for the Zoops bracket in polished billet aluminum.

You'll have to use a "TC" style pump for the Zoops bracket to work, because the belt routing is such that the pulley will spin in a clockwise fashion, and the LT1 "CB" pump was configured to spin counter-clockwise. No biggie though, as they're both identical in appearance.

I found a helluva deal on a "TC" pump in chrome from here:

http://www.yearwood.com/store/produc...s=&id=TUF6175A

I've been researching accessory brackets that are available for LT1 engines for about 8 months now, and this is the closest thing to a "mid mount" setup that I've found. (And that will fit a 4th gen engine bay.) The LT1 block itself has all the same accessory holes in all the same places as that of a 1st gen block, but it's that damned water pump and the different bolt spacing that it has that renders about 99% of the aftermarket brackets unusable.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the info! Unfortunatley, thats what I was afraid of. Once Ive got the engine on the stand, Im going to try and figure something out. Ultimatley Id really like to be able to use an old style ps pump, and a CS alternator would be no problem, Ive got plenty of those.

Maybe if there were enough interest shown, March would consider a true midmount setup for them? Maybe Ill shoot them an email and see what they say.

 

Hmm, well if you're intending to use an old Saginaw style pump with the reservoir attached you might be able to use this:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-H...ayphotohosting

The weird thing about this auction is that the description doesn't really match the picture. The description says that it "mounts to block and water pump boss holes," but the bracket shown in the picture appears to use the block holes and the upper accessory mount hole in the head. Maybe you could shoot these guys an e-mail or call them and get clarification on exactly how that setup mounts? If it turns out to mount how it LOOKS in the pic, then you might be able to use it on an LT1 since it doesn't appear to use any water pump bolts to attach. Worth a shot.

 

Wow perfect!! Im going to do one better than emailing them, Im going to give them a call! Ill post updates if I get anything from them!

 

Look at this! Apparently they make one for an Lt1 after all! Same company as you listed. Im spyched now! Thanks ALOT for the lead man!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-C...temZ8013114988

Im going to be ordering that this week, as well as a p/s bracket as well. Should be able to get it to work!

 

this place has a few different types, a little hard to navigate though, I have a older(2003 1/2) catalog

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/

 

With the stock LT1 R&P, what pumps can be used? I need to find a pump to turn clockwise as noted above and was considering an LS1 pump but if these others will work I might do that instead.

For some reason I thought the R&P was a certain style and could only use the LT1 or LS1 pumps.

 

Well keep in mind this is going in a '92 Trans Am that doesent have r&p so a regular metric pump will work for me.

 

Damn, they have some really great looking stuff there... pretty expensive though!

 

From http://www.f-body.org/oldfaq/html/faq/ch3.html

Dan (burkdani@egr.msu.edu) has some expertise:
As a Co-op student for Saginaw Division for 18 months, I spent nearly all of my time working on the GM built TC, CB, and P model power steering pumps. Since I see some people are bringing up pump whine, I thought I'd try to address the issue.
The 2nd & 3rd generation F car uses a submerged P pump. It is a rather large PS pump that has a housing full of PS fluid which surrounds the pump (hence the term "submerged"). The P pump weighs in at eleven pounds, and is a very reliable unit capable of providing enough hydraulic assist for everything from a Chevette to a 1 ton delivery van. Because the P pump is submerged, it also tends to be quieter than the other models as the oil damps many of the vibrations. In addition, the P pump has been manufactured since the late sixties, and Plant 3 in Saginaw, MI really has their quality control dialed in on that assembly line.
The 4th gen F car uses a CB pump. It is not sumberged, and has a resovoir. It is physically smaller than a P pump, weighing in at about six pounds. It is more suited to passenger cars, as it does not have the obvious excess capacity of a P pump. The CB pump has many similarities to the P pump in that it uses a bushing on the driveshaft, as well as a common flow control valve. All in all, it is quite a reliable unit, aas long as it is manufactured in spec.
A TC pump is dimensionally similar to a CB pump, and can in fact be substituted for a CB pump. The TC is more expensive, and uses a sealed bearing on its driveshaft. Some critics of the TC claim the sealed bearing is noisier than the CB pump because of this. You will find TC pumps on many other GM products, as well as a whole bunch of chryslers, Audi's, VW's, Saab's, and other European manufactured vehicles. I personally like the TC pump. It was kind of like a hot rod, and we'd sometimes spin them up to 9,000 RPM for 100 hours, at 300 degrees F and they'd look fine afterwards. Some say the TC was 'overbuilt', and GM was trying to phase them out, except the customer kept buying them! The TC pump is the lightest of the PS pumps, at just over five pounds. There exist some aluminum pumps from the late 80's Corvettes that weight only four pounds that will bolt into a 4th gen. F car. There is also a new pump called 'direct drive' that runs directly off the cam, but I'll not go into that because I don't know much about it.
Now, the whine you hear when you rev your pump is one of three things. The first is the whine caused by pressure relief. It sounds kind of like a 'Shhhhhhhhh!' If you turn your wheel until it wont turn anymore, the fliud flow to the pump is cut off, and the pump is forced into pressure relief. On the F-car, this means a pressure of between 1200 and 1600 PSI. The pump has to recirculate this high pressure fluid within itself because the fluid has nowhere to go. If left in pressure relief for very long, the fluid can quickly exceed 325 degF, and break down, causing the pump to begin experiencing metal-to-metal contact.
The second noise is caused by cavitation. As you increase pump speed, more and more fluid is forced through the ports per unit time. There comes a velocity where the fluid just doesn't want to move that fast, and the vanes inside the pump will cause a vacuum, which is instantly filled with oil vapor. When the vane reaches the high pressure port, this vacuum cell is opened into a high pressure cell, and oil rushes to fill the void. A little 'sonic boom' results. These individual 'booms' are virtually microscopic, but they add up. What they translate into is a sound that sounds suspiciously like a whine. Now every pump cavitates. It's in the nature of moving fluid. By smoothing the radius of the ports, and relocating supercharge holes (I'm not going into that), engineers can reduce cavitation or push the frequency spectrum of the whine to a less noticable frequency. It is, in fact, where the bulk of pump engineering hours are spent.
Anyway, that funny high pitched whining that Mike Martin is hearing after his autocross run is the third type of noise. This type of whine is from the oil being aerated. When the pump is really screaming, the oil in the resivoir really gets churned up. This allows the occasional air bubble to pass into the pump, where it is totally pulverised into smaller bubbles. Eventually, the oil gets enough of these bubbles in it that you begin to hear it. If you want to really experience aeration, just run your pump low on oil!
None of these three types of noises will cause your pump to die. What kills a pump is heat and oil viscosity breakdown. The pressure relief example will overheat a pump in the extreme case causing galling of the bushing, or wear of the pump ring. The cavitation example, when extreme, like 7000-9000 RPM endurance runs, will cause microfractures to the pump internals and literally blow little flakes of metal off the walls. The extreme aeration example will cause increased heat to the internals, because air does not carry the heat away like oil does. But the common denominator to these is the word EXTREME. Most PS pumps never see this kind of duty, unless the person runs their pump low on oil.


Look for a "TC" pump. The main issue with what can and can't be used with LT1 R&P has to do with the amount of flow any given pump can produce. I was actually contemplating using an old Saginaw "P" pump on my LT1 but from the research I did I found out that using that style of pump would be a bad idea mainly because it outflows the stock "CB" pump by almost a full GPM. That pump would work great at parking lot speeds, but as soon as the motor got revved up and the pump started flowing full capacity it would flow so much fluid that it would make the steering shaft feel like a wet noodle. Wayyyy too sensitive and you would constantly be jockeying the steering wheel to keep the car pointed in a straight line.

IMHO, I'd stay away from an LS1 pump. The main reason is that GM made a compromise when they decided to attach the reservoir back to the pump like the old "P" style was. The LS1 pumps are notorious for boiling the power steering fluid in autocross-like driving conditions. This is because since the pump is designed to maintain higher pressures, (1300-1400PSI), while having a lower flow rating than the P pump, the fluid must flow faster which means it gets recirculated quicker which means it doesn't have as long to cool off.

Keep your remote reservoir setup and go after a "TC" pump. The link I posted above for the TC pump I bought was $115.00 for one that was chrome plated, but that same company also sold the same unit in black powder coat for only $75.00.

http://www.yearwood.com/store/produc...s=&id=TUF6175A (Chrome)

http://www.yearwood.com/store/produc...s=&id=TUF6175B (Black Powder Coat)

 

This would be for a Drag car and VERY little street use.
I will check out the links above. I am cheap and can get a LSx pump for nothing probably.
Too bad the LT1 pump cant be turned clockwise and work properly.