This weekend I am stepping up a generation, I have had my share of 3rd gen Camaros, and I want a 4th gen Trans AM. This weekend i am going to look at a '94 T/A, and I want to know what kind of LT1/4th Gen quirks I need to look for. It is an automatic with T-Tops, white paint, and leather interior. Are the RPOs listed in the center console like in 3rd gens? It has 90,000 miles on it, and looks real clean. I have acess to a lift. Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thank-You

ET3 Charles Partridge, USN

 

Well, there are a few things to look for. Dont be alarmed if you see some oil on the underside of the engine and chassis around the engine because many LT1's develop a slow oil leak at the back of the intake manifold, but its nothing major. Check and see if the tops leak, that could **** you off later. See how the windows work because if they havent been replaced yet the motors are probably on their way out. The RPO codes are listed in the glovebox, should be easy to find. Check and see if the opti-spark looks "newer" because that might need changing. You'll also be looking at new plugs and wires at that mileage if it already hasnt been done. Also check the conidtion of the rear end, seeing if it is leaking any oil. Oh yeah, and dont be alarmed if there's a crack in the top part of the dash. That happens to 90% of the older f-bodys out there. There's not much else really, hope it all turns out good.

Adam

 

yeah, just check for Windows/T-tops leaks which are typical with my 94. Also make sure the headlights go up and down, they start to go after awhile. New plugs, and plug wires, might be needed if not already performed. My transmission went at 120,000 miles so you have awhile on that one (depending on the previous owner was a male or female )

might need some sensors replaced down the road but besides that good engine, good car!

P.S (eventually your window roll down button and lock buttons will start to break! well mine did)

 

i just bought a 94 T/A on monday. it is burgundy in color. it has 68000 miles on it. nice sound system, and it is an auto. it also has borla exhaust. i payed 6500 dollars if that is any measurement to you. i purchased it at a dealer. i would look out for the windows motors. they can be very weak, or sometimes not work at all. i am having problems with my power windows. they go up reallly really slowly. other than that the engine is pretty solid. keep us posted.

 

Thanks for the tips, It was female driven, and luckily it has rained the past few days, so I figure it wil be easy to tell if the T-Tops leak. I called a dealership today, based on the recommendation of a friend, and they are going to check with their wholesalers and call me tomorrow. The T/A I am looking at saturday is advertised for 8900, but I told the guy that it Blue Books for 6000, so I think he is going to drop his price significantly. Thanks for the help.

 

pearlpurple
Member

Registered: Feb 2002
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 269
A compression test is a good check but is a big pain in the ****. The spark plugs take about an hour to change so I would estimate that a compression test will take at least 1 1/2 hours. This of course depends on your mechanical competency. I do not know what you can do so if I get too simple it is not to be rude.

If you are going to buy an LT1 (93 to 97) I would start with the following items:

1) the biggest item I think you want to know about is the Optispark distributor. If you don't know already it is mounted on the front of the engine at the end of the camshaft with the water pump. If you do not do your own work it can cost a few bucks to get a shop to change one. If the car misses or hesitates or can't seem to get up to high RPMs (red line) the Opti may be suspect. Ask the owner if it has the original Opti. look to see if the Opti has oil or moisture around.

2) You must check the oil I do agree with who ever said to,, if it is really black, smells like fuel, has coolant bubbles in it, if it low, etc etc this is easy information.

3) Pop the rad cap and see if the coolant level is up, also check the overflow bin see if it is at the correct level. Check around the water pump for leakage out of the weep hole. If you get water on the opti the opti will not last.

4) Check all brakes but the back especially as they seem to wear fast on some of the cars.

5) Check the back of the intake manifold for fresh oil,, the intakes on these cars (LT1s) will leak oil. It is an easy fix even for the inexperienced back yard mechanic.

6) Check the oil pan for fresh oil as the real seal is also a weakness,, make sure you don't mix up a leaking intake for a leaking rear seal or vica versa

7) Power window motors also go frequently with these cars,, typical GM power window motors.

8) Check rear differential for leakage not a weakness of the car but something you should check,, if you have time pull the plug and see of the oil level is up.

9) You mentioned oil pressure and what is good, once the engine is WARMED UP the idle presure shoud be 20 to 25 psi and at 60 mph 50 to 55 psi. I would not touch the car if the idle pressure was not over 10 to 15 psi and at 60 mph over 35 psi. They say you can go lower but lower the oil pressure the more clearance with your crank bearings and cam bearings so wear has taken place.

10) Window leakage,, look for stains on the rug on the back floor,, look under the rug if possible or underneath if the car leaked you may have some rust starting.

11) Make sure you take the car up to a good speed as the drive shafts also can be out of balance.

12) When you check out the car you want to start with a cold engine,,, many times an engine will knock or make noise when it is cold and when it warms up the noise goes away. Get it good and warmed up too because the oil pressure will drop with increased heat so when cold may show good oil pressure when warmed up the pressure can drop significantly. My oil pressure drops almost 15 psi from cold to warmed up.

The above should only take 25 - 30 minutes unless you want to check the rear diff and do your compression test that you were orignally takling about.

The LT1 car is a fun car to own but you had better be some what mechanical inclined because they do break and they are a pain to work on.

If you have the money I would get an LS1. They are faster too.

Good luck with your search.


later

 

I checked it out today, but wasn't too thorough, because it was raining. Next weekend i am going to put it on a lift, and give it a good run through. I would say I am rather mechanically inclined, I've swapped intake manifolds and cams on 350's with carbs, and I have rebuilt many CR 250 motors, too many of them. The oil pressure was around 21 psig @ 40 mph, I went for a quick ride, due to the rain coming down hard, It would jump up to 30 psig with a small application of the throttle. The only things i was really displeased with were cosmetic. The car is white, and the trim down the middle of the doors is discoloring, and the GFX below the doors has discolored. It is a '94 non-GT Trans Am, so it has the uglier spoiler, are those easy to pick up at a Junkyard? I'll probably have it painted and have a 25th anniversary style stripe put on it (without the door decals, I don't want a fake 25th edition) The headlight and power window motors worked, and there wasn't a drop of oil on the top of the motor. The coolant was a little low, but due to the rain I couldn't really tell if it was from the cooling system or the ambient moisture.

The other thing that i didn't like was the radio. It was the 10 speaker CD system, but it didn't work. The head unit seemed to funtion normally, but there was no sound. Is there something that is know to ground out? or does the amplifier tend to die? If so, where could i find one? I am an electronics Technician for the Navy, so i could fix it if there were parts available, but I doubt that I can get a wiring schematic for it.

All-in-all, I was impressed by the car. It has 93000 miles on it, and he asked 8900 for it. I looked on edmunds and Kelly Blue Book online, and then made him an offer of 6500, which he is considering, he has been trying to sell it for about 5 months. Any added insight would be great,

ET3 Charles Partridge, USN

 

I just bought my '94 Formula fully loaded except t-tops and leather for $5,800. A4, 91,500 MILES, runs excellent.

 

Yeah I would say that price is pretty steep. I got my '95 a year ago and paid $7900. It had 81k miles on it and was in better condition than the one you described. I would think that's why its been for sale so long. Yeah, the T/A spoilers ocassionally come up on e-bay but you have to get the complete hatch with it because you cant just bolt it on. With the radio I would just get an aftermarket unit and that will probably fix your problem. The amp for the speakers is in the radio itself, and then theres a booster amp for the sail panel speakers that's located next to the passenger rear seat, behind the plastic. Good luck.

Adam