So I've got enough money to do a cam swap this spring.

I've got a few of different cams picked out, but have yet to narrow it down.

I'm thinking of going for one with a duration between 225 and 240.
I realize this will lead to quite a choppy idle and it will not operate my brakes - I'll have to get a resovoir tank to fix that, no biggie.

I'll have to send away my pcm to Ion - it will need some reprogramming.

What are your opinions/suggestions?

 

I have the LE2 cam in my 383. I wouldn't say the idle is exactly choppy. My duration is somewhere in the middle of the range of what you are looking at and my brakes work pretty good. You may be surprised at how well they work so you may be able to skip the resovoir.
After the cam swap, get your heads done and take full advantage of the cam swap.

 

lobe seperation will depend more on brake operation than duration. however i do believe there are those on this board running 110lsa's on the street?

 

Try less

 

I take it this will be a cam-only car? Are you set on buying a shelf cam or have you considered ordering a custom cam?

 

It's going to be a cam-only car........just for now - until more funds can be raised. Donations anybody?

Anyhow........I haven't really even thought about a custom cam......honestly didn't know that was a option.
Is there some clear advantages to going custom?

 

Link to a cam in the for sale section

Part Number: 104227 Grind Number: POWERMAX 2033
Engine Identification:
Start Yr. End Yr. Make Cyl Description
1994 Up CHEVROLET 8 FOR 94 AND LATER ALUMINUM HEAD EQUIPPED LT1 CAMAROS, FIREBIRDS AND CORVETTES. WORKS IN STOCK AND MILD MODIFIED ENGINES. BOOSTS MID AND TOP END WITHOUT LOW END LOSS. USE 10758-16 1.6 RATIO ROCKER ARMS FOR MORE POWER. NOT FOR USE W/STOCK SPRINGS. FOR MASS AIR F.I. ONLY. BASIC RPM 2000-6000

Valve Setting: Intake .000 Exhaust .000 HOT

Lift: Intake @Cam 319 @Valve 479 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 345 @Valve 518
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.50

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.004
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake 25.0 BTDC 67.0 ABDC 272.0 °
Exhaust 76.0 BBDC 30.0 ATDC 286.0 °

Spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner
Part Number 99893
Loads Closed 130 LBS @ 1.850 or 1 27/32
Open 314 LBS @ 1.360
Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 1500
Maximum RPM 5700
Valve Float 6300

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake (2.0) ATDC 32.0 ABDC 107 210.0 °
Exhaust 49.0 BBDC (5.0) BTDC 117 224.0 °

 

I had a custom cam done on a billet core and it was only an extra $100 more than an off the shelf grind. If you are going to do heads down the road, maybe you should set some power goals. When you do heads you can take full advantage of that custom cam. Either way with the cam and/or heads, you'll want a full exhaust to help that engine breathe. The list of add ons can just grow and grow. All I wanted to do was rebuild mine and... well..... check my sig, now I am switching to a sixspeed, it never ends.....

 

Thanks for that link.

Although I do plan to do heads....it may be next year or so before I could afford it.

I figure the most difficult mod is the best one to do first. Although a set of headers could easily be a second when it comes to difficulty I suppose. I hear they are a beeotch to get in.

Anyhow.......here's an additional question: With a mild/wild cam and some pcm tuning is there any chance that I could still pass emissions?
I have a way around it but it would be cheaper and easier if I didn't need to.

 

i would look into that cam i sent you the link for, its a good cam at a good price, as for passing emissions i dont see a problem passing with that cam and a good tune. the main thing that is going to hurt you would be no cats, longtubes, and a bad tune. with a good tune longtubes and cats i think you would be fine with that cam.

lt1's are roller motors so in this case you would be fine with a used cam, and the fact that it has low miles is oven better.

 

Thats a large range in the duration catagory, when you get 240 and up range, tuning becomes a bitch and driveability suffers.

the 220 range maybe a bit weakish, keep it in the middle, something like a 230/236 with lift under .600" at between 110-112 LSA will make for a good bump stick.

 

Im swapping my small Comp Cam 304 for a Comp custom grind as we speak
The new cam is Xtreme Energy 233/239 , .569"/.577" lift , On a 111lsa
. So i think its gonna lope pretty good

 

Love my hotcam but it is smaller than you want. But good for a stock bottom end and heads.

 

I think you need to to figure out what it is you really need or what. Is this a stock shortblock? How many miles on it. Is it in good shape? How high do you feel save with, on the RPMs? What kind of emissions testing do you have if you can't get around it. Just a sniff or a visual also. Sounds like you would be better of with a Hotcam, 227, or one of the other small cams in that range. If you might have to go through emissions with no visual how about some longtubes, catted. later you can throw a set of heads on it. Theres nothing wrong with small cams. Seeing as how you have a M6, with the right matching parts you could easily see 360 to 390 rwhp and still pass emisission with the right tune. Just my 2 cents.