Not real familiar with these cars, but i have a 95t/a if that matters at all.

this car will never be a DD, and im pretty much looking at striping all the creature comforts and begin making a full strip car. Now my questions are:

1. what is the easiest way to remove the ac components? and what size belt/how to route it?

2. emissions...since i wont get the car untill this weekend I dont know what all the lt1 fbodys have...I assume EGR, and of course cats(I know how to remove these drr). But does it have a smog pump? what is the best way to remove these parts?

3. heater core/heater hoses...again since I havent messed with a gm car, do they make electric pumps without outlets for the heater hoses(or do the come from the intake and not straight from the waterpump)? are there any throttle body/oil cooler lines that can be removed/plugged? If so any writeups on this?

4. Other than the obvious(make custom bracket) are there any brackets out there so I can just mount a small altenator and wrap a belt from the crank to it? are there any manual steering racks out there for the fbodys?

5. are there any links out there for a strip fbody build up? I cant find any to get a good guess of what I'm getting into, so any help would be appreciated.

 

First off the best website to help out with camaro f-body lt1s is http://www.shbox.com and the smog pump is not belt driven, yes they make electric water pumps, they car comes factory with twin electric fans. I dont know much about the other things you are wonting but Thats all I can help you with. That web site will be real helpfull to find out where everything is. I can tell you one thing, if your going to pull the motor to rebuild you have to drop it out the bottom, and thats not easy but not hard just time consuming.

 

1. what is the easiest way to remove the ac components? and what size belt/how to route it?

Get a "1LE" A/C delete pulley. Bolts in place of the A/C compressor, keeps the stock belt routing, and stock belt length on many cars. There were apparently two different A/C clutch pulley diameters used over the various years, so might need a slightly different belt length on some cars.

2. emissions...since i wont get the car untill this weekend I dont know what all the lt1 fbodys have...I assume EGR, and of course cats(I know how to remove these drr). But does it have a smog pump? what is the best way to remove these parts?

It has EGR, AIR, EVAP and a single cat (unless its a 95 CA emissions A4 car, with dual cats).

EGR is a riser tube from the #8 exhaust manifold runner, to the back of the intake manifold, the EGR valve on the back of the manifold, and a vacuum solenoid on the drivers side of the intake. Blanking plates for all the holes left after removing the system (sjmmanufacturiing.com), and a vacuum cap for the vacuum nipple on the manifold.

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

There are no performance gains from deleting EGR, and the system may actual help reduce the potential for detonation when lugging the engine at part throttle. You will get codes for deleting the solenoid and (maybe - the OBD-I diagnostic is not real sensitive) no EGR flow. Can be "programmed out" of the PCM.

AIR is an electric pump bolted to the front of the engine, driver's side. Bunch of tubing to check valve above each exhaust manifold. Unhook the harness connector and as long as there is a good fuse in the circuit, no codes (OBD-I only). Pump gets unbolted, tubing needs to be cut where it passes under the timing cover, pipes unscrew from the manifolds. Need a 3/4" vacuum cap for the AIR pump air supply connection on the intake ducting, M22 oil drain plugs for the exhaust manifolds (unless you have the CA A4 dual cat - smaller plugs required).

Again, no performance increase. Being electric, there are no drive belt losses, and the pump only runs at startup for a couple minutes to help the cats heat up faster.

EVAP... charcoal canister in the driver's rear fender, tubing to the front, wraps around the front of the engine under the throttle body, to a purge solenoid on the passenger side of the intake manifold, then to a vacuum nipple on the throttle body. Removing the solenoid sets a code. Can be eliminated with a resistor. Removing EVAP produces no performance gains, and may cause fuel odor at the rear fender.

Cats. You already know the answer. This only nets a very small gain... not what you may think. Hollowing it out sounds bad.

3. heater core/heater hoses...again since I havent messed with a gm car, do they make electric pumps without outlets for the heater hoses(or do the come from the intake and not straight from the waterpump)? are there any throttle body/oil cooler lines that can be removed/plugged? If so any writeups on this?

The available electric pumps (Mezier, CSR) use the stock housing. Not hard to bypass the heater lines. Throttle body coolant can be bypassed. Pull the coolant line/elbow off the passenger side and discard. Pull the coolant line off the driver's side, and connect it to the point where the other line connected to the steam tube from the back of the heads.

Not all engines had oil cooolers. Many people believe they cause problems with oil flow, and remove them. I don't agree.... still running the stock oil cooler on the stroker.

4. Other than the obvious(make custom bracket) are there any brackets out there so I can just mount a small altenator and wrap a belt from the crank to it? are there any manual steering racks out there for the fbodys?

There are manual racks available, and alternator relo brackets. Go to Thunder Racing (sponsor) website and look at the Madman products. sjmmanufacturing.com also has an alternator relo bracket.

5. are there any links out there for a strip fbody build up? I cant find any to get a good
guess of what I'm getting into, so any help would be appreciated.[/QUOTE]

You need to address the engine, the driveline and the suspension. There are specific forums for each of those topics. Time to learn how to use the "search" feature...... You need to define your ultimate goal and budget before anyone can give you details.