ABS / braking experts - question
ABS / braking experts - question
asked a guy at a dealer about bleeding my ABS module and how much they'd charge to do it. after him only letting me tell half the story he says that one of my speed sensors on the front wheels are bad and thats why my car was pulling to the left, because the ABS module lost signal to one sensor and wasn't applying as much pressure to that side of the car... all while NORMAL BRAKING... not while ABS was activated in an emergency type situation.
i was under the impression that the ABS module is ONLY activated when the wheels lock up, and unless the wheels are locking then its just sitting there. am i correct or is the dealer guy correct?
i was under the impression that the ABS module is ONLY activated when the wheels lock up, and unless the wheels are locking then its just sitting there. am i correct or is the dealer guy correct?
Previous posts a long time ago said that these sensors do get corroded over time ,and that members have cleaned them ,and been ok.Might page Shoebox(or look at his site)about this one.Hope this helps.
yup, just recently had the same problem with my crown vic. either one of the sensors was taking a crap or the teeth on the "ring" on the hub were messed up. the abs was coming on at speeds under 20mph for no reason. REALLY annoying
im not gonna go chasing after abs problems (since im not too fond of it anyway), so i just pulled the fuse
couldnt be happier
im not gonna go chasing after abs problems (since im not too fond of it anyway), so i just pulled the fuse
couldnt be happier
If your ABS module needs bleed your brake pedal would be soft, if you have a good hard pedal then that is not the problem.
If an ABS sensor is weak or the gap is too much it will work normally at higher speeds and engage at speeds below 15-20 mph. If the sensor has totally taken a crap the ABS will not work at all. It must have a signal from all three sensors for the system to work.
Is your ABS light on, if a sensor took a crap the light should be on.
It's easy to check the sensor. Tap a multimeter in and spin the wheel. As the wheel spins the sensor will generate a DC voltage signal. No signal, No workie.
As you can't just replace the sensor you will have to replace the whole hub assembly. Last I checked they cost like $100. I've got one I'll sell you for dirt cheap it you want it.
If an ABS sensor is weak or the gap is too much it will work normally at higher speeds and engage at speeds below 15-20 mph. If the sensor has totally taken a crap the ABS will not work at all. It must have a signal from all three sensors for the system to work.
Is your ABS light on, if a sensor took a crap the light should be on.
It's easy to check the sensor. Tap a multimeter in and spin the wheel. As the wheel spins the sensor will generate a DC voltage signal. No signal, No workie.
As you can't just replace the sensor you will have to replace the whole hub assembly. Last I checked they cost like $100. I've got one I'll sell you for dirt cheap it you want it.
Originally posted by anasazi
but thats my problem though, ABS isn't kicking on... it was pulling under normal braking conditions. he said that the ABS unit losing signal to a wheel sensor could do this.
is he full of BS?
but thats my problem though, ABS isn't kicking on... it was pulling under normal braking conditions. he said that the ABS unit losing signal to a wheel sensor could do this.
is he full of BS?
Every time the ABS functions, it illuminates the LOW TRAC light. Is your LOW TRAC light on everytime the car pulls to one side? Does the LOW TRAC light during the car start light test?
Try to duplicate what the dealership said. Disconnect the wheel sensor and see what happens. Reconnect it and then disconnect the other wheel sensor.
BTW you will probably need a scanner capable of clearing ABS codes to do this.
I do have a way to test if the left front brake is causing the pulling. If you PM me I'll tell you and no it's not a pressure test like I told you to do. It's much simpler and you can do it in 2 minutes.
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