I've done multiple searches here, and on other sites. I've got a lot of info but I haven't found anything that's helped me solve my problem so I'm starting my own thread.

I installed a set of Taylor wires using their OTVC kit.

After the install the car ran great. Smooth without the slight misfire I had from a couple of burnt wires on the passenger side that were routed underneath my headers. The car felt amazing.

So after about 20 miles of driving around running errands, my friend and I pulled out of the parking lot after having lunch, and the car just died. I got it to the side of the road and checked my fuses and the 10 amp ignition fuse was shot.

So I replaced it with a spare 5a fuse I had and it drove about 30 feet and shot again. I figured it was too low of an amperage so I put in a 15a. Got another few feet and it popped again.

I checked the connection at the coil and icm and there is no short anywhere and all the wires are in perfect condition.

I'm stumped as to what else it could be. It did start and run fine today for a few miles before popping again.

So I didn't get it fixed today but I'm looking for some other things to look into that I can check tomorrow.

Any tips?

Here is a link to a video I made. I'm using 5a fuses now because I popped all my 10a fuses!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAvlYDcdQoE

 

The fuse feeds the coil, coil module and crank sensor. Any of those or the wiring in between could be suspect. Putting in a fuse higher than the circuit rating is extremely foolish. The rating is there to protect equipment and wiring from overload and possible meltdown. Burning up wiring is a road you don't want to go down.

 

I'm aware of the risks. I only used it because all I had was spare 5 and 15's, so when the 5 popped I thought it may be because it was too low.

The coil checks out fine, 6500 ohms on all prongs and the wiring is in good condition.

The ICM - I don't know how to check but all the wiring going to it is fine.

I haven't checked the crank sensor, I forgot that the wire ran to that.

Another thing that is odd is that I can idle the engine infinitely or rev it but once I put it in gear and take off the fuse pops.

 

Is your car an M6 conversion, with someone possible connecting the reverse lockout solenoid to the IGNITION fuse?

 

Nope, factory M6 and there is nothing run to the ignition fuse or the wire coming from it.

I'm going to check on the crank sensor wire to see what condition it's in.

 

So the wiring from the crank sensor is in good shape all the way back as far as I can trace it and still covered by its plastic sheath. I am going do a search on how to test wires to be sure that they're good but from what I've gathered from all the reading I've done on this particular problem, the only thing that cause the fuse to blow is a faulty wire or a wire that's damaged and is grounding out.

I'm pretty stumped at this point and am about ready to go grab a coil and icm from the junkyard and see if it fixes the problem.

Is it possible that either the coil or icm has a short inside it and is causing the fuse to blow? If that's possible then I will definitely swap them out.

 

Try unplugging the crank sensor. You will get an SES but at least you can eliminate that element (unless the wiring is grounding out but you said it looks OK).

 

Ok, unplugged it but haven't had the ***** to drive it around. I don't want to get stuck.

I put a video up of what's going on, if that helps.

 

The crank sensor doesn't do anything that would prevent your engine from running correctly when its unplugged.

 

I know, I'm saying I don't want to drive it around and keep popping fuses and get stuck and have to get pulled home again.

I can't figure out why it will idle forever, I can rev it as much as I want, but once I'm driving it will pop over and over.

 

That's what led me to ask about the M6 conversion.

 

So I drove it up and down my block and it popped. So I guess that rules out a faulty crank sensor. I am sure all the wiring is good, as I did check the resistance on all the pink wires on the coil, icm, and crank sensor and it stayed consistent even when I felt up and down the wires and wiggled it around (read to do that in another thread).

It must be either the coil or the icm.

How can I check each component for an inner short (if thats even possible)?

I'm thinking it must be one of those two things, and the coil checks out perfect at like 6500 ohms.

So stumped

 

When electrical components are under a load, things can change. Still could be coil or ICM, I suppose.

 

So there's really no way to test either of those for a short?

 

BTW, I added a video to the first post in the thread.