97 Clutch master,slave, or other problem
Originally posted by auslandt
Well back to the subject at hand. Prior to investigating the clutch, it looks like the soft pedal/clutch problem is due to a broken slave cylinder. The slave is NOT leaking so the Hydrolics are intact. The problem is that when the master is pushing the slave, the slave mounting is broken and allowing the slave housing to push backward some instead of the enitre force pushing the fork forward. Oh well... I wanted a performance clutch anyway.
Well back to the subject at hand. Prior to investigating the clutch, it looks like the soft pedal/clutch problem is due to a broken slave cylinder. The slave is NOT leaking so the Hydrolics are intact. The problem is that when the master is pushing the slave, the slave mounting is broken and allowing the slave housing to push backward some instead of the enitre force pushing the fork forward. Oh well... I wanted a performance clutch anyway.
Hey...and I was RIGHT in my initial diagnosis. Thought your problem sounded a lot like mine!
Oh, and funny...I replaced my rear pinion seal while I was at it, too.
DJ
Absolute final diagnosis.... Slave Cylinder.
The clutch disc and PP were ok. All springs in place and at least 1mm wear left on both sides. PP intact and looking ok. Flywheel looked very good with a couple of "hot" rings. No hot spots.
Just turned the flywheel, putting in the new clutch, should be good to go once I get the steam pipes taken care of and can then put the transmission back on.
The clutch disc and PP were ok. All springs in place and at least 1mm wear left on both sides. PP intact and looking ok. Flywheel looked very good with a couple of "hot" rings. No hot spots.
Just turned the flywheel, putting in the new clutch, should be good to go once I get the steam pipes taken care of and can then put the transmission back on.
Originally posted by auslandt
Absolute final diagnosis.... Slave Cylinder.
The clutch disc and PP were ok. All springs in place and at least 1mm wear left on both sides. PP intact and looking ok. Flywheel looked very good with a couple of "hot" rings. No hot spots.
Just turned the flywheel, putting in the new clutch, should be good to go once I get the steam pipes taken care of and can then put the transmission back on.
Absolute final diagnosis.... Slave Cylinder.
The clutch disc and PP were ok. All springs in place and at least 1mm wear left on both sides. PP intact and looking ok. Flywheel looked very good with a couple of "hot" rings. No hot spots.
Just turned the flywheel, putting in the new clutch, should be good to go once I get the steam pipes taken care of and can then put the transmission back on.
DJ
Great posting guys!!
I love to see stuff like this and the orginanators updating their findings and giving everyone a absolute final diagnosis...
I have a simiar problem (clutch pedal is fine, but hard to get into gear AT TIMES... not always... its weird...) so I'll be reviewing all this stuff again, and checking what I can...
Thanks for all your work on this!!
Jeff
I love to see stuff like this and the orginanators updating their findings and giving everyone a absolute final diagnosis...
I have a simiar problem (clutch pedal is fine, but hard to get into gear AT TIMES... not always... its weird...) so I'll be reviewing all this stuff again, and checking what I can...
Thanks for all your work on this!!
Jeff
Originally posted by JeffK95Z
Great posting guys!!
I love to see stuff like this and the orginanators updating their findings and giving everyone a absolute final diagnosis...
I have a simiar problem (clutch pedal is fine, but hard to get into gear AT TIMES... not always... its weird...) so I'll be reviewing all this stuff again, and checking what I can...
Thanks for all your work on this!!
Jeff
Great posting guys!!
I love to see stuff like this and the orginanators updating their findings and giving everyone a absolute final diagnosis...
I have a simiar problem (clutch pedal is fine, but hard to get into gear AT TIMES... not always... its weird...) so I'll be reviewing all this stuff again, and checking what I can...
Thanks for all your work on this!!
Jeff
The first thing I always check with hydrolic clutches is the fluid level. I had an old toyota that would leak at the master cylinder slowly. Overtime the clutch would no longer work. So once I found that, I kept a bottle of brake fluid in the car. Not really worth fixing until it went REALLY bad. I only sold the car for $350.
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