96 z Bolt ons
96 z Bolt ons
Ive been looking around for the past couple days and trying to figure out what bolt ons would be the most suffecient..
Ive seen about the underdrive pulleys, does it matter what pulleys? ive seen a couple different ones.. maybe all?
a bigger throttle body is another big one that i have seen.. been looking at the bbk 58mm
i already have a k&N filter w. the ram air hood
have seen mixed reviews on the mass air flow stuff
just curious to see what you guys have or have seen
Thanks!
Edit: i just bought the car right befor christmas and i do believe that the motor is all stock..
Ive seen about the underdrive pulleys, does it matter what pulleys? ive seen a couple different ones.. maybe all?
a bigger throttle body is another big one that i have seen.. been looking at the bbk 58mm
i already have a k&N filter w. the ram air hood
have seen mixed reviews on the mass air flow stuff
just curious to see what you guys have or have seen
Thanks!
Edit: i just bought the car right befor christmas and i do believe that the motor is all stock..
Last edited by JBarnaby1987; Mar 18, 2010 at 09:22 PM.
Don't buy a MAF meter. Waste of money. Also, don't worry about a throttle body right now, especially a 58mm. Since you have the intake, next thing you would want if you're looking for more power would be a catback exhaust and longtube headers with an off road y-pipe. You can pick up all of these for about $850-$900.
Start there and then get back to us.
Start there and then get back to us.
I would agree with the above. The "bolt ons" you picked are not very good choices.
Underdrive pulleys don't do much on an LT1, because the water pump is not driven by the belt. Here's a dyno showing 0.7 peak HP gain:
http://www.ws6.com/mod-2.htm
Couple that with poor alternator output at the reduced idle, particularly with the low idle of your "A4" and its not a very good bolt on.
No way you need a 58mm throttle body. The stock intake manifold bores are only 52mm. The stock 48mm TB will be fine for now.
Consider:
-remove coolant from throttle body. Good for 6HP. Cost = "0"
http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm
-full 3" catback exhaust
-1.6X roller rockers
-3.73 rear gears (what do you have now - 2.73 or 3.23?)
-higher stall converter for the trans.
There are people who will argue that the SS hood is not really any better than a good cold air intake (CAI) because of the SS ducting sitting on top of the hot engine, and all the bends, plus the limited air flow on the surface of the hood at high speeds.
Underdrive pulleys don't do much on an LT1, because the water pump is not driven by the belt. Here's a dyno showing 0.7 peak HP gain:
http://www.ws6.com/mod-2.htm
Couple that with poor alternator output at the reduced idle, particularly with the low idle of your "A4" and its not a very good bolt on.
No way you need a 58mm throttle body. The stock intake manifold bores are only 52mm. The stock 48mm TB will be fine for now.
Consider:
-remove coolant from throttle body. Good for 6HP. Cost = "0"
http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm
-full 3" catback exhaust
-1.6X roller rockers
-3.73 rear gears (what do you have now - 2.73 or 3.23?)
-higher stall converter for the trans.
There are people who will argue that the SS hood is not really any better than a good cold air intake (CAI) because of the SS ducting sitting on top of the hot engine, and all the bends, plus the limited air flow on the surface of the hood at high speeds.
no need for an lt4 intake on your car. The lt4 heads and intake were popular many years ago. Now there are much better performing setups for much less money.
I think you should start off with bolt ons for now. Do a cam once you have already gone 12's with a stock motor. I would add some hp with headers, exhaust and a cold air intake. That along with a pcm tune should be good for a 40-50hp gain. It will cost:
600-headers, instal parts
300-400 exhaust, hooker, magnaflow, slp or you could do custom true duals which will sound and flow the best.
175-cold air intake
100-pcm4less or madwolf tune
From there i would get subframe connectors to tighten things up, a stall(2800-3200) and drag radials. Next would be some suspension stuff to make sure your putting your power to the ground.
Then it would be time for a cam.
I think you should start off with bolt ons for now. Do a cam once you have already gone 12's with a stock motor. I would add some hp with headers, exhaust and a cold air intake. That along with a pcm tune should be good for a 40-50hp gain. It will cost:
600-headers, instal parts
300-400 exhaust, hooker, magnaflow, slp or you could do custom true duals which will sound and flow the best.
175-cold air intake
100-pcm4less or madwolf tune
From there i would get subframe connectors to tighten things up, a stall(2800-3200) and drag radials. Next would be some suspension stuff to make sure your putting your power to the ground.
Then it would be time for a cam.
no need for an lt4 intake on your car. The lt4 heads and intake were popular many years ago. Now there are much better performing setups for much less money.
I think you should start off with bolt ons for now. Do a cam once you have already gone 12's with a stock motor. I would add some hp with headers, exhaust and a cold air intake. That along with a pcm tune should be good for a 40-50hp gain. It will cost:
600-headers, instal parts
300-400 exhaust, hooker, magnaflow, slp or you could do custom true duals which will sound and flow the best.
175-cold air intake
100-pcm4less or madwolf tune
From there i would get subframe connectors to tighten things up, a stall(2800-3200) and drag radials. Next would be some suspension stuff to make sure your putting your power to the ground.
Then it would be time for a cam.
I think you should start off with bolt ons for now. Do a cam once you have already gone 12's with a stock motor. I would add some hp with headers, exhaust and a cold air intake. That along with a pcm tune should be good for a 40-50hp gain. It will cost:
600-headers, instal parts
300-400 exhaust, hooker, magnaflow, slp or you could do custom true duals which will sound and flow the best.
175-cold air intake
100-pcm4less or madwolf tune
From there i would get subframe connectors to tighten things up, a stall(2800-3200) and drag radials. Next would be some suspension stuff to make sure your putting your power to the ground.
Then it would be time for a cam.
Pacesetter Longtube Headers and ORY can be had for $500 shipped. Comes with all hardware and O2 extentions.
PCM4less tune was $175 when I got mine done last year.
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