LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

95 z28 restore

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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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Tdw112192's Avatar
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From: Ellwood City, PA
95 z28 restore

Im restoring a 95 that sat for 5 years...ill probably need tips(because im use to chumpstangs). any advice is a appreciate.....pics and more info will be up soon
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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Here's a start: If you're pulling the motor, do it from the bottom and leave it on the K-member. Once you do it one time, you'll see how easy it is, assuming you have a way to lift the car up high enough to roll the k-member/motor out from underneath. You can leave the transmission attached as well which makes it much easier.

You did good with getting a 95 because you have all the good features of the 96-97, but it's OBDI, which is cheaper and easier to tune (if you plan on doing that).

I find that specific questions on these forums get more answers, just keep that in mind. I'm sure you'll have a lot more specific questions once you really get going, but i just figured I would give you your first reply.

Auto or 6 speed?
Hard top, T-top, or conv?

Tell us a little more about the car.

Good luck.
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 02:06 PM
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I'm parting out a 1994 so if you need parts let me know. I'll hook you up.
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 02:27 PM
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Cool

A member posted this website I found helpful & you might too...http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html. Have fun!
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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I want to do as much as i can without pulling the motor. i don't have a way to lift it high enough.

The car is black with black leather, t-top and its an auto. I plan on tuning once i get it running.

currently i know that the motor is seized and has a head gasket leak.
once i get the heads off im gonna have a shop check them out.
i figure there is corrosion in the cylinders but im hoping i wont need to rebuild the block but i got a mechanic lined up if i have to.

a little about me, im only 17, im somewhat mechanically inclined so i try to do as much as i can my self but there is a decent bit that im not willing to mess with myself. I plan on making this a show car/weekend racer. I drive a mustang as my daily driver and im use to working on it. And thanks for the quick replys

Last edited by Tdw112192; Sep 15, 2010 at 05:37 PM.
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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lol first question...how do you post pics?
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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another question for you Tdw... what are you going to do as far as moddifications to the engine if your racing... haha i may take an intrest in this thread, im am 17 also in the process of rebuilding my engine
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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right now im just working on getting it running...but the heads are getting ported and polished eventually...bigger injectors rails and fuel pump, cam , egr delete...lol you know the typical mods
Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:35 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 1994BmtZ28
A member posted this website I found helpful & you might too...http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html. Have fun!
I found this website as well before I pulled my motor. It is very helpful. I didn't have to elevate my rear tires at all. I left them on the ground and had plenty of room to roll the motor out the front.

But since you're not doing this, i guess it doesn't matter. It's just a bitch to work on these motors while they're inside the car. Especially pulling the intake, heads, etc. Hell, even changing the spark plugs with the stock exhaust manifolds is damn near impossible.

I would be asking for a cherry picker for Christmas if you plan to continue working on motors.
Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:45 AM
  #10  
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If the engine is seized you really should pull it and rebuild. Pull the plugs first just in case it's hydrolocked (water or coolant in the cylinders) and try to spin the engine over. No joy, pull it out.

These cars have tough spots but they aren't that bad to work on. I've done heads/cam with the engine in the car, headers with the heads installed, oil pan removal, etc, etc...it can all be done with some planning and thinking...
Old Sep 16, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
Originally Posted by Tdw112192
right now im just working on getting it running...but the heads are getting ported and polished eventually...bigger injectors rails and fuel pump, cam , egr delete...lol you know the typical mods
The fuel rails are plenty large enough, the can be easily modified to support 1000+hp. Best mods are intake(air filter intake, not intake manifold), cam, exhaust and a tune.
Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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well there was coolant in one cylinder so far(only got the driver side plugs removed cuze passenger side is a b****)

Whats the chance of any internals being rusty( inside the cylinders) and would that cause more work/money?

i noticed a rebuild kit is about $600...i found a used motor for 600 with less miles than mine so i think if i have to rebuild ill just buy that used motor.

I also got the throttle body and intake manifold off..they are dirty as hell

Thanks for all the input so far guys

Last edited by Tdw112192; Sep 16, 2010 at 11:42 PM.
Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:37 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by mguidry629
I found this website as well before I pulled my motor. It is very helpful. I didn't have to elevate my rear tires at all. I left them on the ground and had plenty of room to roll the motor out the front.

But since you're not doing this, i guess it doesn't matter. It's just a bitch to work on these motors while they're inside the car. Especially pulling the intake, heads, etc. Hell, even changing the spark plugs with the stock exhaust manifolds is damn near impossible.

I would be asking for a cherry picker for Christmas if you plan to continue working on motors.
I only plan on working on my own car...this car is more or less a hobby for me but ill probably pick up a cherry picker some time soon(when i get sick of busting my knuckles)
Old Sep 17, 2010 | 08:23 AM
  #14  
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From: Oklahoma---405
If the car sat for any time at all i would expect some ring rust, and maybe a little build up on the cylinder walls, that would probably mean you need a hone, which can be expensive
Old Sep 18, 2010 | 12:23 PM
  #15  
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If i were you i'd buy the motor with less miles rebuild it and throw that in there. Also if you dont feel comfortable taking the motor out from the bottom it will come out from the top, you'll need to take the heads,intake manifold, everything on the front of the engine and the radiator off and she'll come right out of there.
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