gangforward

After dealer replaced the Dist and fuel pump (off warrranty now...) the car has gotten much harder to start. With the original equip it started with just a click on the starter - now it will not start at all with the first try - you have to let it turn over a bunch, click off, wait till you hear a click, then try again. It starts, but like it's loaded up a little, then smooths out.

Motor is original - 113K miles. Has a few bolt ons - K&N, Borla, Pulleys, they have all been on for years.

Any suggestions? Place I can take it to in Tampa area and not get ripped off?

TIA!

Guest47904

Why did those parts get replaced? Or was it doing something before they changed them?
How long has it been since they were replaced?
Did you talk to the people that did that work to ask their opinion?
Did you get the old parts back?
Do you know if there is any warranty to their "labor"? Not parts.

FYI long cranking is usually caused by a few things. The most common is a stuck check valve in the fuel pump. The longer it sits after running, the harder it is to start. To find out if any of those are a problem, the next time you crank it up after sitting for a very long time. Turn KOEO for about 5 seconds. Then turn it off. Then repeat this about 4 or 5 times. Then after about the fifth cycle, crank it up. If it starts quickly once you finally turn the key to start, you have at least proved you have loss of fuel pressure when it sits.

If it starts up fine and idles fine from the beginning of starting it up, it is most likely a stuck check valve in the fuel pump.

If it starts up and runs rich for a short time, it could be dripping injector or a defective FPR.

NOTE: A dripping injector or a bad FPR could contaminate the crankcase with fuel. Check the oil for the smell of gas.

Monitoring fuel pressure with a gage can give you a clearer picture

gangforward

Thanks for the tips - car broke down on Alligator Alley - had to have it towed. They first said the OPTI was bad - replaced it, still wouldn't run - said it was the fuel pump. Replaced that too - after I got it back I have had the issue. Car does not get driven all that much... I've got some things to check. Thanks for the tips!

Guest47904

Sounds like the fuel pump check valve is not closing like it should. The only way to confirm it is to eliminate the other 2 things IF YOU SEE PRESSURE DROP after the engine is shut down.

So you have to monitor fuel pressure. If it drops, you test the vacuum line on the FPR for the ability to hold vacuum.

Then you lift the fuel rails and the injectors to be sure there are none dripping with full fuel pressure applied to them.

If that's the case, and pressure drops even though the FPR will hold pressure and the injectors aren't dripping, you know the pump valve is bad.

Or you have a hole in your fuel line somewhere. Not likely.

2QUIK6

If the problem started right after the fp was replaced then they may have kinked the flex line coming from the pump and put a hole in it during install. Or a hole got in it some other way. Have had this happen before but had no one to blame but myself since I installed it. Check valve probably not bad if brand new pump. Can use fp gauge and clamp off the various lines once pressurized to prove if it's regulator not holding pressure or check valve. If both supply and return are clamped off and pressure still drops then it could be the bad leaky reg or injector.

Guest47904

You have either metal lines or hard plastic lines. Can't crimp either one unfortunately since that would be the easiest way to rule in or out, the fuel pump.

2QUIK6

The plastic lines aren't that hard, they are designed to get crushed and not puncture or rupture in case of a crash, they are made out of some amazing plastic, just don't get carried away and try not to do it repeatedly in the same spot. If you don't feel comfortable doing it you can always pop off the return line and cap it with a cap and clamp on the hard line, that will at least resolve the reg being an issue, and remove the vac line to see if any fuel comes out there.

Injuneer

The factory manual says NOT to pinch the factory nylon lines to do that test. They use a valve that inserts in the quick connect between the hard line and the nylon line.