Dat-94'Z28

the car goes only to about 2000 rpm's and boggs down the engine will not go higher than 2000 i have a link to the video i shot today to see if anyone could help me find out whats going on with it

Injuneer

You might want to add the info from you cross-post on the "Exhaust" forum - this happens only when the engine is fully warmed up, and only since you changed the plugs and wires.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/exh...firing-878235/

Are you sure all the wires are on the correct plugs?

Dat-94'Z28

yeah im sure the wires are in the right order i did the plugs and wires yesterday and when doing it the old wires fell apart when taking them off so it was really needed

Injuneer

I closed you "Exhaust" thread. We prefer that you post a problem on only one forum. That way, everyone who tries to help you knows what suggestions and info have already been provided. Otherwise, people could end up wasting time posting info that someone else has already provided in another thread.

4th Gen 4 Life

Did the problem start after you changed the plugs? Also when running does it shake real bad like a unbalanced engine?

This is a question for injoneer or shoe box?
How does the timing advance work on the electronic lt1? Im more aware of how the older sbc works but new to the pcm platform. This could be the problem for the original poster but is just a guess?

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Injuneer

The optical cam position sensor in the optispark distributor provides cam position data to the PCM. The PCM looks up ignition advance in a table with RPM on one axis and MAP (as a measure of engine load) on the other axis. The PCM sends a signal to the ignition control module to fire the coil at the right instant. The timing is incredibly accurate (same data is used for the injector timing 94 and up) because the high resolution signal from the cam position sensor locates the crank rotation to within 1-degree. A sloppy timing chain could throw things off a bit, as well.

Tmiing can be off if the Optispark distributor is not indexed correctly to the camshaft - an easy mistake to make. But he indicated that his tuneup consisted only of plugs and wires, so I'm assuming he did not remove/replace the distributor. He also indicated in the other thread that the problem started after his tuneup. That's why I asked if all the wires are on the correct plugs.

Injuneer

PS... answering your question from the video - the low coolant light is a common problem, the result of a faulty sensor. You can try cleaning the sensor, but usually doesn't help. The coolant seeps past a seal and corrodes the circuit board in the sensor. Unplug the sensor and the dash light will go out.

Dat-94'Z28

the car runs funny when warmed up trying to rev up the engine it does not go past 2000 rpm before it starts to spit and sputter it sounds like the cat is clogged but it was not when i put the exhaust back on after installing the motor could it have anything to do with valve adjustment maybe???

Injuneer

You need to be clearer. You appeared to indicate the problem started only after you did plugs and wires. Now you are asking about a valve adjustment.

When you rev up the engine, is the car sitting in the driveway idling? Or are you driving it, under load.

Dat-94'Z28

sorry i am not really good at explaining problems but okay here it goes:
I did a motor swap in January and once I got it running i noticed it ran really rough so I did a tune up on it thinking that would solve the rough idle the motor vibrates really badly sitting still everything on the motor is completely stock besides the cold air intake that is the only mod if you wanna call it that but when i rev up the engine it smells really bad on exhaust i wanna say it is but not sure so here is what the car does when reving it up it does not go past 2000 rpm and acts like it is hitting the rev limiter and the car is sitting in the driveway when all this happens

4th Gen 4 Life

With the engine vibrating that tells you it is missing in a cylinder throwing it off balance. I would double check my plug wires. They are a pain to get a solid connection sometimes. Also check all your harness wires going to your distributer and your coil. Try moving the harness wires going to the coil while running to check for bad connection.

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Injuneer

What motor did you swap in? Was it a new engine, or used? Stock? F-Body engine? Same year as your car?

Did the problem exist from the first startup of the replacement engine, or develop at a later point?

If you installed the plug wires by cpying the way they were installed on the replacement engine, you need to check to make sure they match the correct routing and connection diagrams:

Courtesy of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/opti.jpg