The camaro isnt starting. The car wont turn over, or rotate at all. It does not click when attempting to start the car at all. All the electrical works (lights, windsheild wipers, radio, etc). The battery terminal are in good shape. Checked all the wiring on the battery, starter solonoid, alternator, pcm. Replaced the started, still nothing. Checked all my grounds, fuses, all good. Not really sure at this time. Have no had a scan ran on the car yet, but its on my to do list for sure. No service engine soon light. It got dark outside, had to come in, any ideas for tomorrow?

 

Try the horn with the key off. If it doesn't work, chances are good the power going to the ignition switch is out as well. Let us know

 

when u turn key does lights come on for the check engine low traction control and stuff? i had similiar problm with mine it just died when i was driving. there is a blue box on top if the steering column that the main wire that controls the the engine main power runs to mine burt out and everything else would work except the main power to turn fuel pump ect i had to make a switch that when i take key out car would still run untill i turned switch off. take the cover off the bottom and look up under and wiggle the box it might be a loose wire in there i believe its the closest one to the steerint wheel that is the main one . hope this helps out

 

horn does not work. how do you test the ignition switch? im going to try to banone said right now ill be back.

 

You probably burned out the fusible link for the starter circuit. Which by the way powers the horn, lighter and the RAP module.

More than likely you don't have to go to the ignition switch. So look at an easier to get to location.
Near the LH kick panel under the dash is a huge 48 pin connector. There will be 2 side by side pins at one end of the 48 pin connection that have red wires on them. The one you are interested in is the very end red wire. It should have 12 volts at all times. Use a simple test light available at any auto parts store to confirm 12 volts or in this case the lack there of.

It probably won't have 12 volts so now remove all the wires from the junction block near the battery that have all the red wires on them. This is where it gets hard to find which one you need to examine.

With the help of a friend and an ohm meter, you want to find one of the 3 red wires that is going through the firewall in the huge square grommet near the master cylinder that is the one that is giving you the problem.

Let us know if you have to go that far and I will continue with the location technique. I don't want to bore people YET by going any further.