94 z28, cooks 383 stroker 11:1 compression, 6 speed, comp cam custom grind cam, comp cam 1.6rr,holley tb, bbk headers,y pipes, borla exhaust, msd opti, melling pickup tube. green top injectors, fuel pump, deep oil pan.

so i just got the car, ran good for a few days(i havent been too hard on it) anyhow after i did a wot 1st and 2nd gear pull, all the dash lights came on and went off. the car was still running fine except it kinda felt somewhat down on power, and the exhaust tone sounded like a header gasket leak. and the oil pressure was at around 20 and ive never seen it that low before(usually runs at 65ish cold, and stays at or above 40 warmed up). I pulled over and shut the car off and cant get it to start back up. it turns over once and cranks slowly until it wont do anything. i put a new battery in it(525 cold cranking amps) is the battery to small? i also have another battery in the trunk that i just now hooked up after it started this problem? what should i look into first?

 

when i first got the new battery it did start but died before it could even idle, and wouldnt start, ive tried jumping the car on cables, and it does the same thing, turns over once and then turns over real slow until nothing.

 

Have you checked for codes? Have you checked fuel pressure? Have you checked for spark at the plugs, and at the coil wire?

Could you clarify "all the dash lights came off and went off."?

 

all the warning/service lights came on when I hit 2nd gear hard. when i turn the key on the battery gauge will read a little over 10. The fuel pump kicks on. ill look into checking some other things when i get home

 

The dash lights came ON, and went off..... makes more sense.

Did the engine cut out for an instant, as if the ignition shut off for an instant? Sounds like it lost ignition power briefly, then it was restored and the system cycled through the bulb check. That event, plus the low voltage reading with the key in "RUN" may be indicating poor connections at the battery, the red plastic junction box, at the starter or the grounds. The low voltage can affect the sensor readings and the operation of the fuel pump and the injectors.

From Shoebox, 94 and 95 are virtually identical:

http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg

Battery specs, from 1994 factory service manual:

Test Load Amps - 260
Cold Cranking Amps - 525
Reserve Capacity - 90 minutes
Replacement Number - 75-60

Free download of factory service manual, from GaryDoug:

http://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

 

wow, now that you mentioned it cutting off for an instant. It did, im so glad I made a post about my problem...im about 70% sure you hit the nail on the head. I'll track it down after work today and let you know what happens.

heres a picture of my setup,




whats the plug go to that I have sitting on top of my throttle body

 

if you have any tips or suggestions on how the batterys/wires are ran let me know. I appreciate the help for sure.

 

Are you running two batteries - one in front and one in the hatch? Is the battery box fastened securely, and vented? Rear mounts can be a major problem unless done correctly. I just went with a light weight battery up front to avoid the problems.

 

yeah im running one up front and one in the back, it seems to be wired up and ran really good(i didnt hook up the rear battery until just yesterday, so my problem was well before i connected the rear battery) i think i found my problem :fingerscrossed:

that grounds to the front of the block along with the injector wires and then into the frame frame
...

 

also do you know anything about that plug thats laying ontop of my throttle body(in the previous post)does it go to anything? and I wanna thank you alot for the advice for sure.

 

heres 2 videos of it, with a new battery and on jumper cables just to start. it wont let me upoad the vids, but i get it to start and it dies before the initial rev comes down to idle.????

 

Picture of the connector is fuzzy, and I don’t recall any part of the stock harness being that long. Appears the harness bundle has a random red wire poking out running toward the alternator.

Shoebox has a great photo of the complete wiring harness. See if anything matches up:

1995 Z28 A4 Engine Harness

I'll take a look/listen at the videos, but I usually can’t get a lot out of them.

 

looks like the ac compressor connector

 

ended up being a broken crankshaft, if this means anything, i just had a super street pro mcleod clutch kit put in the car and had maybe 150miles on it when the crankshaft broke, it broke towards to rear part of the crankshaft. i just kinda appreciate yall's time and wisdom and wanted to give this update.