Repairing a leaking hub seal on timing cover. Finally got the hub off with a puller, but it wasnt easy for sure. I marked the hub and timing cover before i removed. My question is , once i get the new seal in, whats the proper procedure for reinstalling the hub. Like I said previously, it really came off hard and i dont want to damage the new seal or the crankshaft threads while putting it back on. Any suggestions would be very helpful. thanks

 

You can make a installer tool with some 7/16 20 grade 8 threaded rod, some nuts and strong washers. Here is a step by step on making the tool. It also helps to put some antisieze on the inside of the hub. Also some people like to boil their hubs to expand them a little bit for ease of installation. Using the threaded rod will take the stress off of your crank threads and will stress the rod where you are tightening the nuts. Once installed use locktite on the hub bolt. Hope that helped!

Bryan

 

i made that tool when i installed the hub, works like a charm

 

I made the same tool. Way less drama than using a hub installer (where that "bearing washer" always breaks). I put a dab of grease between two washers and away I went. Went on so easy, I thought I did something wrong. I think the torque spec is 75 ft/lb on the center hub nut.

 

What installer did you use? I used one I bought from Summit and it worked perfectly.

 

There are various brands of hub/balancer installation tools out there. I have a "Comp Cams" version that I bought from Summit about 6 years ago and it works great. The one I have came with several different adaptors so that it can be used on about any engine.

 

Just file out the rust on the inside diameter of the hub and cleanup the crank where the surfaces meet, grease it up, and that puppy will slide right on. Maybe a few light hammer taps will be needed. Then next time when you need to pull it off it shouldn't give you any problems.

 

You sure your hub seal is the source of the leak? The most common leak is thw water pump gear seal.

 

OBE1, ain't the truth. I just went through that. It's amazing how much oil that little seal will leak.

RamAir95TA, I used a puller from Autozone. It had a bearing that was supposed to ride on the snout of the crank and allow the nut to push evenly as it was installing the hub. It was exactly the opposite. The bearing froze up and I ended up chucking the whole works and making my own for about $4.00.

 

thanks you guys for the tips. I made that tool today and it went on without any trouble at all. I really appreciate the help.

 

Amen brother, that's what I did. Then let the bolts pull it tight.

 

Did you have to buy the threaded rod online? Local steel place does not carry 7/16 20 grade 8.

 

I bought mine on-line; be sure to check shipping prices when ordering.

Here's a recent link that may be helpful: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt...tall-tool.html