Good morning! I am a newbie on this list. I have a 1994 Camaro Z-28 with the 5.7 L. Engine and I need to replace the water pump, which I have ordered. The old one is pouring water out of the weephole. I have a Haynes manual and it outlines the method of replacing the water pump. I have one question:

As I have disabled the airbags and have removed the upper panels over the water pump area already, I am ready to lower the fan assembly out of the automobile to remove it. As I look at it, it doesn't look like I have to remove the radiator to remove and replace the water pump, although Haynes says I do. My question is, is it necessary that the radiator be physically removed to replace the water pump, or is there enough room to do the job with it in place?

Thanks for any assistance. Any other caveats will be welcome too.

 

it can be removed without even pulling the fans off,especially from underneath.i had a lift and it was a 15 min job

 

I would remove it just to be sure you don't accidentally bump the water pump into it. Better to spend a little time up front than spending more time on the back end replacing parts that could have been saved by removing them. That's just how I do things. I've ruined/broken more parts rushing and trying short cuts than I care to mention. Good luck and take your time.

 

Water pump can be done in less then an hour. Drain coolant, remove fans, disconnect hoses, helps to take off air pump, and belt. Remove the bolts and take it off. Make sure you clean the gaskets completely off and when you put it back on put thread sealant on the bolts or else you will get a small leak. Pep boys sells water pump silicone that I've always had good luck with.

 

No need to remove the radiator. Fully drain the engine block (remove the drain plug from the driver's side of the block as well as the knock sensor on the passenger side). If you don't more coolant will spill on your distributor when you pull off the water pump. The distributor doesn't like getting wet; common cause for poor performance.

You stated that coolant has been pouring out of the water pump drain hole. If the vehicle has high mileage with the original distributor, I would suggest replacing the distributor now as the water pump needs to be removed to get to the distributor.

 

Wow--thanks for the input. Really helps. I ran into one more obstacle. I decided to leave the radiator in--seems like I have plenty of room. I have taken out the 6 bolts that hold the pump to the engine, but it won't budge. I have rapped it with a rubber hammer and with a wood block hit with a large ball peen. Kind of timid about really releasing a sockum hit--hate to break something not associated with the pump. I haven't removed the serpentine belt yet--does it put enough tension on the gear in the rear of the pump to keep it from coming free? Also the Air pump is still in place--would it hold the water pump from releasing? I have replace a lot of water pumps in my day on other types of cars, but this one seems much more difficult than the others I have replaced.

 

Take the fans off, it takes less than 2 minutes and does not even require tools. Just pull the plastic cover off that is on top.

 

Yes remove the air pump, iirc it blocks the water pump from moving. Take the belt off too, it's easier to move around with it off.

Just get a wood block against the water pump and let loose with a good solid whack, should come off. Make sure you're hitting out towards the bumper of the car though as the gear that drives the wp isn't that tough. Also be aware that I'm pretty sure it's sitting on pegs. I've done pumps in both of my LT1s and never had a problem.

A piece of advice, make sure the block surface is very clean where it mounts the gasket or it may leak. Use a razorblade and some sand paper if u've got it. Use silicone on both sides of the gasket when you put it on, and like said above use thread sealant on the bolts after you clean out the threads. DO NOT USE LOCKTITE! Use thread sealant specifically for bolts that intersect coolant passages.

post up if you have any questions! good luck!

 

Eh, just pry it from the back... not really going to come off hitting it with a hammer because the cam gear is holding it on the back and then there are some pins holding it on the sides. you need to pry it forward ! the belt can stay on, but i do suggest that you replace the opti since your already in there (as long as it has high mileage)

 

um, if the air pump is still in place, there is a bolt you missed, it is covered by the air pump bracket