What are my options for a timing set that will hold up to ~500 rwhp w/ N20?
Is a gear to gear timing set an option? It appears that the only options I have are going to cost ~$500, but there are some gear/gear set ups for hundreds less than that. Opinions? Amy I stuck with paying $500?

 

If you keep the non-vented opti, you have very few options. What are you going to buy for $500? I don't know of any gear setups that will drive the non-vented opti.

 

I have been told the the edelbrock E117890 would work. I don't know how much modification it would need, but I am getting PO'd that I would have to spend $500 on a timing chain, lol.

 

Otherwise, my other option is an E-water pump, vented opti, and a cloyes double roller, but that will end up costing me ~$500, which is frustrating because my stock WP is good enough, and my opti works just fine :Grr:

 

Comp cams makes one that'll work. It's specificly for 92-94s with and un-vented opti. Part # 3206. It's ~around $500ish

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_109150_-1

They also make one for 95+ LT1s under part # 3207

I wouldn't spend my money on either one. IMO it's better to convert to a 95+ opti and a EWP so that you can run a regular double roller timing set such as a Cloyes or a Progear.

 

I thought he was saying gear drive. 3206 is chain drive.

 

Oh I see...I didn't read slowly enough I guess

AFAIK...LT1 + geardrive = not a good idea.

 

Why is that? Just wondering.

 

The noise drives the knock sensor crazy.

 

Why is it that everyone assumes the stock parts are bad.
How many stock timing set failures are you aware of?

 

Even with an LT4 KM?

Also, I will be running 400 hp NA, w/ a 100 shot. I would rather pay the money and NOT risk it failing, and my factory one only has 28K miles on it.

 

The LT4 KM will not make a difference for that noise, IMO. Doesn't matter. You can't use one with what you want to do.
If you want to keep the non-vented opti, you will just have to pay to play for something heavier duty than stock (if that is what you require). There is no way around it.

 

Then that is what I will have to do.

Now comes my other question. Is it worth keeping the opti I have right now, or ugrading to an E-water pump and vented opti?

 

That's purely your decision. If you want more choices on timing sets, then you have to convert to the vented opti. Simple as that. With the vented opti, you could use an LT4 ED timing set and keep your mechanical water pump. Of course , the LT4 ED set is not as cheap as a Cloyes double roller, but you won't have to convert the pump.

 

I am not saying reuse the used one but again how many stock timing set failures are you aware of. Do a search here. I have issued this challenge repeatedly and the only guy to come forward broke two stock chains and then found an external cause.
The stock parts are a lot stouter than the kids on the internet give it credit for. I am making the NA power you are shooting for, due to time contraints and emergency repair there is a 40K mile timing chain in the motor. I am embarrased I was not prepared to replace it when it was apart but reality is it is holding up fine and I am not worried about it.

The stock set was made pretty beefy because it has to support the load of the WP in addition to the normal cam/oilpump duties of a gen 1 setup.