welp, my lt1 decided to drop oil pressure today and looks like the oil is silver and is going to end up needing a bottom end,

heres alittle back story,

this winter i installed a 114lsa cam, 650 lift springs, roller rockers and a pair of ported heads and ported intake, fast forward to today, i decided to take it out and drive it today, first time out the car ran like a raped ape, i mean it was sideways all the way into 3rd, i was on dry pavement also running 315s,

well i started to notice my oil pressure was just above the red mark when normally even when hot and idling at 800 rpm i was at about 35psi, so i tried to get it home asap, well long story short it was already too late,

so heres what im doing, im rebuilding the lower end, probably just going to go stock again unless i find a good deal on a forged style crank, the motor still runs and doesnt knock just has a bad loss of oil pressure, so im thinking it could use new main and rod bearings, the crank polished and a new set of cam bearings, (hopefully i didnt ruin my new cam its only got 9 miles on it)

so heres the thread for it, anyone have any tips as to what to look for when rebuilding? its not my first time in an lt1 like this but just trying to gather a list of stuff i need,

as of right now im looking for a crank, either stock or 383, ive also heard that 92/93/94 cranks have a short keyway and 95/96/97 have long keyways? trying to figure out if i need to try and save my crank or if i need to grab me another one,

but as far as my plans go for my motor, i want something i can beat the **** out of and its going to hold up to it, ill be making a list in the next post(s) of what i have and what i need and updates

 

picked up a complete short block guy said the motor held 20psi of oil pressure but knocked alittle in the upper rpms, so i atleast can rebuild that block throw my ported heads on it and make it an easy swap,.

 

Do you have this book? Great reference.




The keyway in the crank is the same. The keys are different. The 96/97 key has less cutback because the key has to engage the crank position sensor reluctor that was added in 96 as part of the OBD-2 misfire detection system.

Another good reference on LT1 engine variations/differences:

Rebuilding the Chevrolet LT1 Engine, Doug Anderson, Automotive Rebuilder, September 1999

 

No i dont have that book, great idea there ill pick that up, found out that i probably knicked a cam bearing installing everything, so im thinking ill rebuild this other block i have and use it as an easy swap motor, then rebuild my current block in my spare time,

But i know for a fact that #2 pistons rod bearing is junk before i even take it apart, im guessing it did the typical lt1 overlap so ill polish the crank and see if i cant get away with a bearing change