Hi guys, I replaced my stock TB with a bored 52 stock TB and it doesn't always idle right. The set screw is where it need to be but the throttle sticks and can be manually shoved back down if under the hood and once key is off the linkage returns to the set screw so it's something electric causing it. Can anyone relate or give me some tech advise as far as this goes? Is there any adjustments to make after a TB swap like this? I'm about to put the 48 back on and return this thing if my computer can't make sense of it. Thanks, Emile

 

It isn't electrical if the blades are STICKING and you can manually force them closed back to the set screw.

I would start looking for WHY it is sticking. First look to make sure your TPS is installed properly and isn't crooked causing binding on the shaft. Take the TPS off and exercise the throttle body with the gas pedal. If it still sticks, it isn't the TPS causing the problem. It could be just a mess-up in the machining and there is an internal bind? Either way, from what you have said I doubt it is electrical or PCM related.

 

Have you checked the IAC motor?

 

Well, the reason I say it's electrical is there is NO bind when I take it off the car OR have the key off. If it's stuck while idling and I kill the engine and look under the hood after engine is stopped, key off- the linkage returns back to stop screw WITHOUT me touching the accelerator or linkage so I am almost positive it's not mechanically sticking. How do you test the IAC motor? ARRGGGHHH, I'll probably end up sending this thing back. Thanks for the responses guys.

 

I don't know how to test the IAC motor but those problems seem to be a bad IAC motor. I had the same problem before. It would go the whole way back against the stop screw as soon as the engine was shut off. Don't send the TB back before you give a new IAC motor a try. I'll bet you a dollar that the IAC motor is your problem.