500 rwhp
500 rwhp
i have a 94 trans am have done all the bolt ons. i am wanting to make it to 500rw hp any suggestions on parts to use when building the engine and where to start specs on parts suggested would be very helpful to thanks
For that kinda power, you may want to look into getting a power adder like N20 or a supercharger. You may want to post this in the forced induction or N20 section.
Is this your Daily Driver?
My car should make around 450RWHP and over 500RWTQ (mabee more) when I am done with it and its a blown set up that I drive everday on the street and its very streetable in my opinion.
Thx,
Claude
Is this your Daily Driver?
My car should make around 450RWHP and over 500RWTQ (mabee more) when I am done with it and its a blown set up that I drive everday on the street and its very streetable in my opinion.
Thx,
Claude
im a little worried about nitrous with the amount of miles that are on the car right now. Maybe a slight rebuild and then nitrous?
does any body know how much horse a car with all bolt on mods is running before you start on the engine?
does any body know how much horse a car with all bolt on mods is running before you start on the engine?
the most streetable way to add around 500rw like u want is to have forced induction. Like mentioned before, nitrous is the most easy but you dont have the power all the time, and you mentioned your worried about the stress on your particular engine.
I recomend a blower. Get your compression down to a nice 7.5-8, since you will be changing out your pistons to acheive that ratio you'll want to go a full forged bottom end anyway while your at it.
Going N/A for 500rw is going to result in a borderline streetable car unless you go big cubes.
I recomend the blower over a turbo because of the overall cost and simplicity of instalation-though a turbo is essentialy more street friendly then a SC.
I mention all of this concidering you keep in mind Anti-blinging's .02 above
I recomend a blower. Get your compression down to a nice 7.5-8, since you will be changing out your pistons to acheive that ratio you'll want to go a full forged bottom end anyway while your at it.
Going N/A for 500rw is going to result in a borderline streetable car unless you go big cubes.
I recomend the blower over a turbo because of the overall cost and simplicity of instalation-though a turbo is essentialy more street friendly then a SC.
I mention all of this concidering you keep in mind Anti-blinging's .02 above
Last edited by Tony Danza; Mar 15, 2004 at 12:12 PM.
Originally posted by Tony Danza
I recomend a blower. Get your compression down to a nice 7.5-8, since you will be changing out your pistons to acheive that ratio you'll want to go a full forged bottom end anyway while your at it....
I recomend a blower. Get your compression down to a nice 7.5-8, since you will be changing out your pistons to acheive that ratio you'll want to go a full forged bottom end anyway while your at it....
Originally posted by Injuneer
Why would you ever want to lower the CR to 7.5 on an aluminum head LT1 with a blower. I've seen conservative people go to 8.5:1 on huge HP setups (check Rich Krause), but even that is low. Baxter made well over 1,000HP on a blown 383 and didn't drop his CR below 9.0:1.
Why would you ever want to lower the CR to 7.5 on an aluminum head LT1 with a blower. I've seen conservative people go to 8.5:1 on huge HP setups (check Rich Krause), but even that is low. Baxter made well over 1,000HP on a blown 383 and didn't drop his CR below 9.0:1.
Originally posted by Injuneer
Why would you ever want to lower the CR to 7.5 on an aluminum head LT1 with a blower. I've seen conservative people go to 8.5:1 on huge HP setups (check Rich Krause), but even that is low. Baxter made well over 1,000HP on a blown 383 and didn't drop his CR below 9.0:1.
Why would you ever want to lower the CR to 7.5 on an aluminum head LT1 with a blower. I've seen conservative people go to 8.5:1 on huge HP setups (check Rich Krause), but even that is low. Baxter made well over 1,000HP on a blown 383 and didn't drop his CR below 9.0:1.
500 RWHP is gonna cost ya, we are talkin 650 Flywheel hp with a Manual tranny and 700 flywheel hp with an auto. Will Take a stout forged 4 bolt main bottom end to live if you wanna beat on it Say $3000 for a good Bottom end If you assemble it, $1500 MINIMUM set of heads. A $2400 4L60E with $900 converter or T56 with $1200 street twin, complete with $500 drive shaft. Or a $1500 Turbo 350, no overdrive. $2000- 9 inch or 12 bolt rear with a torque arm and lower control arms. Minumum $600 fuel system upgrades. $500 4inch Mufflex ex. $500 Longtubes. $350-$500 dyno tune. These prices are for all new stuff...but you get the idea. ANd thats just for the Big stuff. Speed costs...how fast you wanna go?
Best bet is artificial atmosphere of your choice.
500 RWHP is a monster on the street on ANY tire that fits in a stock fenderwell.
My Dad and I are attempting with a all motor 383 LT1.
David
David
Best bet is artificial atmosphere of your choice.
500 RWHP is a monster on the street on ANY tire that fits in a stock fenderwell.
My Dad and I are attempting with a all motor 383 LT1.
David
David
And lets not forget the Transmission, Rear end, chassis, suspension, and wheel/tire combo to handle 500rwhp...Sounds like a few $$$$$ to me..big power takes a big budget, and a VERY understanding wife/girlfriend....I'd make a few calls to reputable builders and bend their ears...Like all have said you definitely need to build the engine with good parts before you start with power adders...good luck in whatever you decide...
--Alan
oops...I see that Anti-blinging already said all this....oh well, I'm a slow typer...
--Alan
oops...I see that Anti-blinging already said all this....oh well, I'm a slow typer...
Last edited by ABA383; Mar 15, 2004 at 07:37 PM.
Assuming you have a fully-prepped suspension to support the power, there have been some VERY successful heads/cam combo's pushing over 400 RWHP. But keep in mind, these are honking HUGE cams... think .580"+ lift. One car has hit ~460 rwhp, NA on a stock bottom end... but I'm pretty sure it was a solid roller. But that's about as much power as you'll want on the street I think.


