I see alot of people recommending the 12pt heads. I noticed they also sell a 6 point head (http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_133874_-1)

Won't the 6 point be alot easier to install since you can just use the open end of a 5/16 wrench? Why do people recommend the 12 point head over the 6 point?

 

Its easier to fit a socket on,and a wrench wont slip off it.

 

I run the 6 point without any issues, but they are studs.

 

Most people use a torque wrench/socket to install head bolts, not an open end wrench The only reason I see to go for the more costly twelve pont is that if the bolt heads are very close to the springs, it is easier to get a socket on them. Ususally this is not a problem with a typical LT1.

Rich

 

I believe he's referring to the ARP header bolts.

 

If you're working in a tight area, you wont need as much room to rotate the wrench to get a grip on a 12 point head.

 

I found some Breslin bolts online so I'm going to try and order those. If I don't get them I'll just go with some 12 point ARP's. Thanks guys.

 

Oops, sorry. Well, I torque those anyway

Rich

 

Don't bother with the stupid locking gimicks. Only reason header bolts "loosen" is the gasket compresses and causes them to lose torque. Retighten them frequently for the first week or two is all you need to do.

 

Part of this is true. What people forget to do when installing headers, they don't chase the threads. All that rust from the old bolts stay in there. So, when you think you got them tight, they really are not. I use studs and the threads were chased. I have never had to retighten my headers.

 

Use "Never Seize" or the equivalent whenever you install headers.

Rich

 

If you search EBay, you can find a vendor with some stainless Breslins. The company is Boese Engineering, or something like that.

 

It also depends on the gasket used, something like the Earl's Pressure master does not need retorquing but a cheapy paper one likely will.