What would be the easiest way to get there other then Nitrous?

Turbo or s/c, doesn't matter...

Also, how hard would it be driving in the snow/rain with that much power?

 

You could easily achieve those numbers with either one with about 6 pounds of boost. On a note, on an identical setup, the turbo will make more low-rpm torque than a centrifugal supercharger, plus turbos are a little more efficient and have more potential. And with either one, you will probably blow up your engine pretty soon so start saving up for that also Good luck.

Driving in the rain and in the snow should not be a huge problem with appropriate tires. Just don't try running it with bald Nittos in the rain

 

Nitrous would be the easiest, cheapest, safest, and most reliable way. I could add more adjectives if you want me to.

 

I hear that quite often, what precautions can you take for this? I want a turbo so I can really feel a kick in power once it starts spooling, but I hear all this crap has to be done. Isn't there a way to prevent this garbage?

 

Not a big fan of Nitrous... I don't know why, I feel like its cheating... :-/ I just want to steer clear from Nitrous

 

If you want a turbo car, you gotta do it right the first time to avoid all the drama later on. F-bodies were never designed to be a FI car, so you would need to:
1) Upgrade the short block, using all forged components and high-grade bolts.
2) Upgrade the drivetrain and the suspension to handle and be able to put down the added HP (12 bolt, better clutch etc....)
3) Upgrade the fuel system (actually this should be number 1 or 2 on the list). The stock system can't handle all that power, you will need new injectors and a higher-capacity fuel pump at least).
4) And finally, a very very good tune.

I am pretty sure I am missing out some stuff, but you gotta take care of those things if you want to have a reliable turbo car. Good luck.

 

Be prepared to spend about $6000-$8000 then. And have a bunch of headaches trying to put it all together. And do the motor swap. And that's just if you do all the labor yourself.

As opposed to $1000 for a top of the line entry level nitrous setup.

I find the people that think nitrous is cheating are the same ones who don't have it/know nothing about it.

 

It has nothing to do with knowledge, just feel that a spray is like a nitro, which it is... its just unfair I think. but whatever. Against a na motor, I don't think its fair. But whatever... to each his own.

 

Blowers and turbos are forced induction just like nitrous.

 

All = Power adder ...If you don't want that just a N/A motor then bore and stroke it

 

I didn't really think about the extra crap to compensate for the extra power, so hrm...

Whats are some safe numbers for a daily driver without going into the rear so it doesn't shred to pieces? I just want to run high 12's low 13's... Does that require a moser 12 or a 9" rear?

 

Why did you pick 450 lb-ft of torque? Is that at the flywheel, or at the rear wheels? If at the rear wheels, is that after an M6 (14% loss), a typical A4 (18%), or a performance auto like a TH400 with a loose convertor (20+%)?

You don't need 450 lb-ft to run "high 12's"..... you could run that with 360flywheelHP and similar torque.

If you actually want 450 lb-ft on a reliable basis, bore and stroke - no power adder. A 396 will have no problem generating that kind of torque, and with the right cam selection you can move that peak torque up or down the rpm curve to meet your driving needs.

Whether you need a stronger rear depends on how you plan to drive it.... street driving with an automatic will probably allow your 10-bolt to survive. Running an M6 with slicks will definitely require a 12-bolt. A 9-inch would be overkill in either case.

 

Like Injuneer said a built 396 will get you there.
If you want to go FI rought that would bolt on check out
http://www.jlturbo.com/lt1_dyno.htm
Either way drivetrain, fuel, tuning, etc. will have to be considered. It depends on what kind of power you want.

 

If you want to spend some money, then go 396 or a good 383 setup....forced induction is nice, but there is so much that has to go along with it.....

But if you want to get there quick, nitrous is the way. A killer setup with be a 396 w/ a 200 shot. Nitrous is not cheating, look at it this way, so with nitrous your cheating some of the time where as supercharger/turbo your cheating all of the time. Nitrous is the best bang for the buck out there.

 

To run high twelves then, what should I do? I know a hotcam kit should get be around 370lbs of torque with a full exhaust and a few other bs mods, but i'm looking to steer clear of heads, cam, and intake... If 370 isn't possible without any of those, then I guess it'll be put on hold until further notice.

By the way, its a M6 and at the wheels, not crank.

You think running mid/high 12's needs a stronger rear? I won't be launching like crazy, but i'll do lots of roll races. But assume I do launch a lot and do burnouts... still think I need a stronger rear to run mid/high 12's?