SS RRR

Indeed.... found out the hard way on that one.

rskrause

I don't mean you, at all. But it's amazing how many times this gets posted and then ignored. That's the damn thing about Mr. Gore's Web. Plenty of info, but how do you know if it's GOOD info? The HV pump/stock pan is a good one. I lost a $7,500 short block on that one. Even though the info was there if I had looked/interpreted it correctly. Then I, and others post it here and get arguments because "I have had mine for 300 miles and it is still running strong and I don't anticipate any problems" or some such crap. Or, because not every single one self destructs, people think that means it;s not a problem.

Now, I try not to get into too many arguments. I will post what I know, try to explain it, and refrain from getting in to it as much as I can when someone contradicts what I KNOW to be true.

Rich

mdacton

So what are the best rods?

for a 540?

rskrause

Lunati used to make a really nice mid-priced rod called the "Pro-Mod" which had great clearance for about $650. They either stopped making it or now use that name on a $1,200 billet rod. The Oliver's are good, both the billet and the regular forged rod. They are ~ $700 for the forged. The billets are $1,200 plus. The Compstar looks real nice but I have not seen how much clearance they take. There's lots of others but I can't really comment on them.

Rich

quickSS

I'm rebuilding a customers 408 right now which seemed to have been well built from the get-go by a company in Michigan..

Lunati rods have good stroker clearance.
I think Oliver have even better.

Here are the Lunatis in the 408 rebuild
see the bolt clearancing

Here is the bock clearancing in the 408
not all too bad

Definitally go with a small base circle cam.

Karl

Formula408

karl, do you think im ok with the eagle rods? how much can I safely remove on bolts..(i got arp2000s btw i hate to waste them) should i do the block pour with devcon? I also got the stroker clearanced rods with the one side machined down.
I am planning to use small base circle too.

Aaron

reamo04

look into some carillo K1 rods

SS RRR

Oh I know, but it's just more testimony to back your reasoning up FWIW.
You are my sunshine
My only sunshine
You make me haaaaaaappyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
when skies are gray....

quickSS

If I had to bet money, I'd say the Eagles will cause for a great amount of block clearancing and into the water jacket.
I think it was Rich that already mentioned to do all the epoxy or filling and block clearancing first, (and not last). The block will move around after all that so after the block fill and rod stroke clearancing, (one or two weeks later), then bore-hone the block and align hone etc.
Karl

rskrause

Karl: the old engine builders I learned from taught me that the block should sit for a few weeks, if possible, after the filling/epoxy, grinding before the rest of the machining. At least when you use fill, it ought to sit for a week or so at a minimum (and when someone my age says "old", it means a lot). Any thoughts on that?

Rich

Formula408

I'm going to try to bring block home today and go to grainger and get the epoxy. Is it the pastic steel liquid I need? What is the best method on doing the fill, can someone point me in the right direction.

My timeline to make ltx shootout is quuickly narrowing.

Aaron

FASTFATBOY

Probe engineering makes a nice rod, with th 1/2 head rod bolt on my 383 almost no clearancing was needed, didnt touch the pan rail at all.

David

Formula408

update on the 408....
I took everyone's suggestions and did the devcon fill before clearancing. It seemed to work great! I did my clearancing and did manage 2 break through in one spot on number 3 cylinder. I took the block in had it pressure checked, all was good no leaks! even in the splayed cap bolt holes. I got the crank and pistons in it and tonight while checking my clearances one last time i decided to check my devcon, it has SEVERAL cracks in it in various places. I am now VERY concerned. i did epoxy it from the outside before when i got the block back as an extra precaution but i'm not sure its going to hold. Any one else ever notice cracks in the devcon before. I am assuming it cracked when setting my endplay. Well thanks for any replies guys. wish me luck.

AdioSS

can those who have dealt with or are dealing with 4" stroker small blocks tell me what rod length and piston compression height you used?

ss95

i was under the impression that anything over the 3.875" stroke would cause some huge problems with reliability. did you have to get a special cam made so it wont get smacked by the rotating assembly?