I properly sealed all head studs with thread sealer and torqued them down to 65 ft. pounds. I now have coolant coming from around the two outside rear studs on the passenger side. Can I take them out without removing the heads, put some more thread sealer on them or can I just torque them down some more.

My canton plan is also leaking frrom around the back of the pan. Could this just be the pan gasket, or is the rear main seal the culprit. Comb motorsports had the rear main assembled as part of the shortblock, so I don't think they put it improperly.


Anyone have any suggesions?


Thanks, Aaron

 

Torque them some more? You said you already torqued them to spec. Hopefully your torque wrench calibration is ok. You could try removing the bolts and resealing them. You might want to drain the block, first.

You are going to have to look closely at that oil leak to determine where it is coming from.

 

Thanks shoebox. hopefully I can figure out whats going on today.

 

Chances are that the oil leak is due to the JUNK STATUS OF CANTONS OIL PANS. They are total junk and I suggest you sell it and buy a Miledon. But hey, thats just me and I personally have one and know how bad the SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Is that all your supposed to torque the heads down too? I have never done GM heads but on my AMC's Ive done they were double that.

 

This is what arp says:

"Due to the expansion rate of aluminum, it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ft lb's with arp moly assembly lubricant"


Has anybody else used arp studs, if so what did they tourque theirs to?

As for the canton pan, when I finally put the motor in the car, there was a loud clunking noise upon initial startup. Took the pan off an I had forgot to knock the scraper down. so, after doing that I reinstalled the pan underneath(PITA), so hopefully I just did not seal it properly. With the new FelPro pan gasket, it says that it goes on dry, of course I put plenty of RTV around the front and back of it. Should I have put it alway around the gasket?

Any help would be appreciated, my 17x11's should be here today!

 

Youll have to drain the block, remove the leaking head bolts, clena the threads in the block and on the bolt, reapply ARP sealant with teflon. Dont glob it on but make sure there is a 360 deg ring of the stuff on the threads. Reinstall bolt torque in stages to 65 ft pounds as ARP suggests, I use the ARPs all the time and thats what I torque them to.

 

It is not uncommon for head studs to leak when you first fire up motors. A couple of mine have and I just put in some radiator sealer, I think I used last time alum a seal. You will want to change the oil often though until you are sure it is no longer leaking.

 

Cantonracer, that will work but I must chime in about these radiator additives, be careful with them. If you ise one dose and it does not work, do not add a second or third dose. This stuff goes everywhere that coolant doeas and I mean everywhere, including the small orfices of your heater core and the bypass on the back of the heads, the thermostat.

In this case a little is ok but more than that is too much.

 

if they don't leak to bad you can throw sealing tabs in it. GM sells some that I have seen work. Try to seal it w/ tabs or whatever you can get b4 taking it apart..

 

If you use the sealer, I would suggest unhooking the heater hoses from the heater core so you don't plug it up.

Good luck,
Botch

 

Thanks everybody.

What are these sealing tabs exactly? how do they work? do you have a part # for them?


Sorry for all the questions, I am just anxious to get these bugs worked out and hopefully not have to pull the motor.

 

Also, anybody use the new felpro gasket and put rtv all around it?

 

I use copper seal on my head gaskets.

 

I also used copperseal on my cometic head gaskets, two coats on each side.