is it possible? i was on the phone w/ summit ordering gaskets and bearings and such from them and when i told the guy i was building a 383 he asked me to hold off on the lt4 hot cam kit and to ask around to see if it would work. he mentioned useing a smaller diamiter cam w/ longer push rods or something.

anyone who can clear this fog plz feel free as i am lost.

my engine build so far is this
3.75 crank
6" pressed pin forged rods
4.030 hyper pistons 11.25 compression @ zero deck
clevitte 77 cam,main,rod bearings
felpro complete lt1 gasket kit for .030 over
OEM size replacement titanium valves for int/exh

i need to complete my valvetrain.
i need an oil pump
i need a ported intake manifold

i cant really have any head work done until i figure out what cam im going to use...

i wanna keep it streetable and i have heard good things about the lt4hotcam lemme know what you think about all this...

 

To anwser your question
I have not heard of the hotcam not working for a 383 before. I am sure someone can give you a positive anwser.

To add my opinon:
LT4 hotcam is way to small for a 383, even with streetability added into the combo. I would go bigger.

 

what size would be sufficiant? as you can tell i havent done my cam homework...

 

Not sure to be honest, picking out someone elses cam is a nitemare. Because what you consider "streetable" I may consider boreing. And what I consider streetable, you may consider crazy.

Maybe someone else can point you in the right direction.
Just for reference, people consider a CC503 to be VERY streetable on a 350 lt1. So since you have some extra cubes you can go a little bigger and still have what most consider great streetability.

Just for reference, the summit has the CC503 with these specs

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,800
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./230 exh.
Advertised Duration: 276 int./281 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.503 int./0.510 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

 

Depends on the exact rod you choose. Its possible that a wide H-beam rod might require a small base-circle cam for clearance, but not likely. Post the specific rod details.

Agreed though... a 383 will swallow a larger cam than a 350. LT4 HOT cam is too small. And.... you have to select your heads before you select the cam. What good is a cam with small lift, on heads that flow well to 0.650 or 0.700 lift? What good is a high lift cam with heads that stall at 0.550" lift? Pick the heads and cam together, or at least get the flow chart for the heads before you have someone knowlegdable help you with the cam.

 

Driveability is not the only concern, making power at useable rpms is. Doesn't matter how well it drives if the shortblock can't take a few hundred rpms past peak HP then the cam is still too big.


I would start from scratch on the whole build.
Seems safe to assume with Hyper pistons you chose a cast crank WEAKER than stock.
Cheap rods don't stay round after a few retorquings.
hyperutectic pistons are stock equivalant
Titanium valves sounds good but are you truely ready to support them???
Believe for the street you need to look at different seats or they will beat them up.
Titanium is also VERY picky about surface finish and handling, a scratch can literally turn into a crack.
Titanium valves are done for weight reduction, with the mild cams you are looking at there are cheap and readily available springs that will do the job without going lightweight on the valves.

Whether you need a small base circle cam will depend on what rods you picked, choose on price alone and you endup having big clearance issues and lots of headaches.

HOT cam is not a great choice, especially for a stroker, but you are putting together a CHEAP disposable motor that will underperform anyway so why not buy the CHEAP cam kit too.

 

ok so back on the small base circle cam issue... i have forged Ibeam 6" rods... will i be ok w/o the small base circle cam?
sorry about the piston info they are hyperutectic 4.030

 

You are working bass aackwards.

You always choose your cam based on your heads, not your heads based on your cam.

 

Bingo.

As long as you get some good flowing stock heads you could run a shelf cam like the gm847 already mentioned. You should see pretty good results if you have the major supporting mods. But if you get something custom like what AI/LE do with their packages you should see much better results.

The cams are based off the heads and what the customer wants. I would contact one of the two, both are very proven.

 

With a hotcam'd 383 I made 333/390, with a 16 a/f and a miss uptop. They said it would be good for about 30 more hp/tq with it running better. I personally am upgrading to a gm847 because I feel like there's too much left on the table.

 

You still haven't really told us anything meaningful about the rods.

What rods are they, lot of different 6" forged I-beams out there. Give us a part number.

 

after speaking with lloyd elliot over the phone i realized i would have had to use a small base circle cam and also realized that the pistons i ordered are for the wrong(3.48) stroke sooo i am trashing the 383 idea and going for a 355... my plans are to use a scat forged crank (a friend just happen to be trying to sell) using the 6'' forged rods and the KB pistons i already have. i will be useing the 847 cam and having LE build and port my heads. my compression b4 any deck work should be 11.8 being that lt1 heads are 54.5cc

i know that this changes my thread completely but any comments?(other than how tarded i am for not paying attention to detail)

anyone need a brand new 3.75 stroke nodular iron crank?

 

make sure to get it balanced!

 

I never relized you had to buy specific pistons for a certain stroke.

 

1/2 the stroke + rod length + compression height determines where the top of the piston sits relative to the deck at TDC. If you change the dimension of any one of those three components, you have to adjust the dimensions of at least one of the other two.