383 Stroker Question
www.nu-tekmotorsports.com
If you don't know much about them the best thing to do is to let Nick from Nu-Tek build you one.
Click on strokers on that page for LT1s.
If you don't know much about them the best thing to do is to let Nick from Nu-Tek build you one.
Click on strokers on that page for LT1s.
you can get a good kit for 1800 from sumitt. comes with everything you need except the bore and some are even balanced for you. but, like they say, the more you spen, the better it is. on the other hand, if you want to spend the 5 grand, ill buy one from sumitt and you can pay me 5k for it.
Budget and Stroker do not belong in the same sentence.
You may as well port/polish the heads, do a larger cam, plan on a computer retune, get some longtubes and appropriate exhaust, make the appropriate intake mods, get some larger injectors, and the list goes on and on once you start in on it.
Also, with the torque of a stroker, you may as well plan on a 12 bolt and some ET Streets or slicks, you will end up needing a six point bar to run at the track legally, and you should rebuild your transmission/clutch now rather than wait to blow it on your first pass.
Just my .02, not a flame.
You may as well port/polish the heads, do a larger cam, plan on a computer retune, get some longtubes and appropriate exhaust, make the appropriate intake mods, get some larger injectors, and the list goes on and on once you start in on it.
Also, with the torque of a stroker, you may as well plan on a 12 bolt and some ET Streets or slicks, you will end up needing a six point bar to run at the track legally, and you should rebuild your transmission/clutch now rather than wait to blow it on your first pass.
Just my .02, not a flame.
In a chevy 350 like the LT1- the pistons travel up and down 3.48'' in a 4'' bore
we bore it to 4.03 '' and use a crank with a longer stroke - so now the pistons travel 3.75''
the real advantages of it are
more cubes
longer stroke tames the cam a bit
When doing a rebuild, a 3.75'' crank costs just as much as a 3.48'' crank so why not get a 383
With the advantages listed- a 383 will not make much power than a 350 with the same internals and heads. The bottom end is not where the power is- its in the heads and cam combo. The cubes help, but the heads and cam combo associated with the combo is what really gets you moving
If you are not expierenced engine builder or building with someone who is-
its probobly a good idea not to build it yourself the first time
With that said- I think combo motorsports is the best place you can go to for a 383-
I honestly think they are one of the best- if not the best- LT1 tuners.
- 2 bolt main caps with ARP main studs
- Eagle 4340 forged steel 3.75" stroke crank
- Eagle 4340 forged H-Beam connecting rods
- SRP forged pistons (flat top/dish top depending on application)
- JE Plasma Moly ring set
- Clevite 77 race bearings
- Melling high volume oil pump
- Fully balanced and blueprinted
- Custom hydraulic roller camshaft designed for customer’s goals
- GM LT4 Extreme Duty timing chain set with oversized crank sprocket
- Competition Cams Pro Magnum full roller rockers
- Competition Cams chromemoly pushrods
- Ported LT1/LT4 intake manifold
- Competition Cams Pro Magnum roller lifters
- Fully assembled crate engine
Stage 2 heads (really nice)
and a custom cam for you too!
All for $5895.00 Shipped
That is proboly the same price you would look at for just buying the parts and machine work and head work.
Hell of deal IMHO. and its all forged so its pretty God damn strong and ready for lots of nitrous
we bore it to 4.03 '' and use a crank with a longer stroke - so now the pistons travel 3.75''
the real advantages of it are
more cubes
longer stroke tames the cam a bit
When doing a rebuild, a 3.75'' crank costs just as much as a 3.48'' crank so why not get a 383

With the advantages listed- a 383 will not make much power than a 350 with the same internals and heads. The bottom end is not where the power is- its in the heads and cam combo. The cubes help, but the heads and cam combo associated with the combo is what really gets you moving
If you are not expierenced engine builder or building with someone who is-
its probobly a good idea not to build it yourself the first time

With that said- I think combo motorsports is the best place you can go to for a 383-
I honestly think they are one of the best- if not the best- LT1 tuners.
- 2 bolt main caps with ARP main studs
- Eagle 4340 forged steel 3.75" stroke crank
- Eagle 4340 forged H-Beam connecting rods
- SRP forged pistons (flat top/dish top depending on application)
- JE Plasma Moly ring set
- Clevite 77 race bearings
- Melling high volume oil pump
- Fully balanced and blueprinted
- Custom hydraulic roller camshaft designed for customer’s goals
- GM LT4 Extreme Duty timing chain set with oversized crank sprocket
- Competition Cams Pro Magnum full roller rockers
- Competition Cams chromemoly pushrods
- Ported LT1/LT4 intake manifold
- Competition Cams Pro Magnum roller lifters
- Fully assembled crate engine
Stage 2 heads (really nice)
and a custom cam for you too!
All for $5895.00 Shipped
That is proboly the same price you would look at for just buying the parts and machine work and head work.
Hell of deal IMHO. and its all forged so its pretty God damn strong and ready for lots of nitrous
To give you an idea of price differences:
I built my 383 for $7000 u.s.
Thats not including the rad and other crap.
The guy I built it from charges $2500 u.s. to do a straight 350 rebuild using the same crank.
I built my 383 for $7000 u.s.
Thats not including the rad and other crap.
The guy I built it from charges $2500 u.s. to do a straight 350 rebuild using the same crank.
Originally posted by Gripenfelter
To give you an idea of price differences:
I built my 383 for $7000 u.s.
Thats not including the rad and other crap.
The guy I built it from charges $2500 u.s. to do a straight 350 rebuild using the same crank.
To give you an idea of price differences:
I built my 383 for $7000 u.s.
Thats not including the rad and other crap.
The guy I built it from charges $2500 u.s. to do a straight 350 rebuild using the same crank.
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