383 stroker guys...This setup wok alright?
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 116
From: Birmingham, Alabama
383 stroker guys...This setup wok alright?
This a nice setup? Will it work? Any onther suggestions?
Will the crank ad rods be strong enough?
It is all from http://pmeracing.com/
Triton 4130 Forged Crank Shaft
343831 383 3.750 Stroke, 350 Mains, 6.000 Rod, Int. Bal, 2-Piece Seal 1650-1850 $437.21
Triton 4340 I-Beam Connecting Rods
346000B 6.000 2.100 .927 Bushed $269.77
Keith Black Pistons......WHICH should I get?????
I want Higher compression I think....I am not going to put a blower on it....I was thinking about spraying..........a shot like, 150-200hp range.....
Also plan to put in Dur@.50/242-248/.540-562 w/ 1.6 rocker arms. This Top end work with Bottom end? Any suggestions?
Will the crank ad rods be strong enough?
It is all from http://pmeracing.com/
Triton 4130 Forged Crank Shaft
343831 383 3.750 Stroke, 350 Mains, 6.000 Rod, Int. Bal, 2-Piece Seal 1650-1850 $437.21
Triton 4340 I-Beam Connecting Rods
346000B 6.000 2.100 .927 Bushed $269.77
Keith Black Pistons......WHICH should I get?????
I want Higher compression I think....I am not going to put a blower on it....I was thinking about spraying..........a shot like, 150-200hp range.....
Also plan to put in Dur@.50/242-248/.540-562 w/ 1.6 rocker arms. This Top end work with Bottom end? Any suggestions?
Last edited by Supermanx500; Mar 26, 2003 at 11:24 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 226
From: Texorado
Since everything else is forged, why not get forged pistons? I think it would be wise since you are thinking of spraying.
LT1s are 1 piece rear main seal. You can buy an adaptor to make a 2 piece crank work. However you may have to buy a new flywheel/flexplate to work with the 2 piece crank.
LT1s are 1 piece rear main seal. You can buy an adaptor to make a 2 piece crank work. However you may have to buy a new flywheel/flexplate to work with the 2 piece crank.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 480
From: Lincoln, NE, USA
Crank = don't bust your wallet on it, but get a forged piece.
Rods = make sure you get forged pieces
Pistons = in my opinion, this is where you should really be spending your money, as I have been told that the stock LT1 bottom end will hold up to nearly 500 fwhp and 6000 RPMS anyways.
Here is my setup (or at least the one I plan on buying)-
SCAT forged crank
SCAT forged 6" H-beam rods
JE 12:1 compression pistons
Clevite main and rod race bearings
Oliver splayed 4-bolt caps
All ARP studs/bolts
I would try flatlanderracing.com ---> they have multiple kits for the LT1, forged or not, and you can almost customize what you want as far as a stroker kit goes, just my .02
Hope this helps and these are my opinions!!!
Rods = make sure you get forged pieces
Pistons = in my opinion, this is where you should really be spending your money, as I have been told that the stock LT1 bottom end will hold up to nearly 500 fwhp and 6000 RPMS anyways.
Here is my setup (or at least the one I plan on buying)-
SCAT forged crank
SCAT forged 6" H-beam rods
JE 12:1 compression pistons
Clevite main and rod race bearings
Oliver splayed 4-bolt caps
All ARP studs/bolts
I would try flatlanderracing.com ---> they have multiple kits for the LT1, forged or not, and you can almost customize what you want as far as a stroker kit goes, just my .02
Hope this helps and these are my opinions!!!
Banned
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,505
From: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Originally posted by DubbyZ28Camaro
Crank = don't bust your wallet on it, but get a forged piece.
Rods = make sure you get forged pieces
Pistons = in my opinion, this is where you should really be spending your money, as I have been told that the stock LT1 bottom end will hold up to nearly 500 fwhp and 6000 RPMS anyways.
Here is my setup (or at least the one I plan on buying)-
SCAT forged crank
SCAT forged 6" H-beam rods
JE 12:1 compression pistons
Clevite main and rod race bearings
Oliver splayed 4-bolt caps
All ARP studs/bolts
I would try flatlanderracing.com ---> they have multiple kits for the LT1, forged or not, and you can almost customize what you want as far as a stroker kit goes, just my .02
you can also try www.cmotorsports.com
Hope this helps and these are my opinions!!!
Crank = don't bust your wallet on it, but get a forged piece.
Rods = make sure you get forged pieces
Pistons = in my opinion, this is where you should really be spending your money, as I have been told that the stock LT1 bottom end will hold up to nearly 500 fwhp and 6000 RPMS anyways.
Here is my setup (or at least the one I plan on buying)-
SCAT forged crank
SCAT forged 6" H-beam rods
JE 12:1 compression pistons
Clevite main and rod race bearings
Oliver splayed 4-bolt caps
All ARP studs/bolts
I would try flatlanderracing.com ---> they have multiple kits for the LT1, forged or not, and you can almost customize what you want as far as a stroker kit goes, just my .02
you can also try www.cmotorsports.com
Hope this helps and these are my opinions!!!
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,647
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
I went with SRPs because they are very strong pistons and if I ever use a power adder in the future I don't need to swap pistons. They also required no machining or re-balancing.
Good quality pieces.
Good quality pieces.
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