here is one setup i found, can anybody give me a rough estimate on how much this setup would cost me, i have an Basically stock lt1 automatic with 113k miles on both.....anything else i should do to it for this motor setup?


Here it is: (got it from lingerfelter)
383 Cubic Inches: LT1 motor
Lunati 4340 forged steel crank, 3.75" stroke
JE forged pistons
Oliver 4340 steel rods 5.85" length
CNC ported LT1 heads, 2.00/1.56" valves
Lingenfelter hydraulic roller cam: 219/219 @ .050, .525/.525 lift, 112deg sep
SuperRam intake, base, and 52mm throttle body
(thinking of using 58mm BBK??? throttle body and SLP 36 lb. injectors)

I will go with pacesetter long tube ceramic coated headers and a y or x pipe dunno which yet, thinking the x pipe. (any ideas where to get one)

 

you wont be doing it with that cam.

for an automatic, a CC306 would be ideal for you for an off the shelf cam.

 

Budget ~ $12k, soup to nuts. Lingenfelter ain't cheap, and neither are 383 stroked monsters and the other parts they require.

 

if you don't mind me askin how much did it cost for your 383 and true dual setup on your 97?

 

More than I care to admit, and enough to get me in serious trouble with the old lady. I've got easily $12k + in mods on my car.

 

I could be wrong but I thought LPE did make over 400rwhp (not a whole lot though) with that package. Anyone else know?

 

personally, my budget build up is

worked lt1 castings, flow 270@.600
worked lt1 intake and monoblade
242/248 .545/.554 113LSA (using 1.65 rockers so the lift is just over .600)
wiesco 4.040 pistons
lunati pro-mod rods
eagle forged crank
splayed 4 bolt.
partial fill to freeze plugs

im setting up for alot of nitrous and RPM, but expecting 430+ on motor.

i have roughly 6k tied up into the full longblock, this includes gaskets, 1LE pulley and other minor misc parts.

 

12K for a forged 383 Maybe if you have some shop do every thing for you and pay high price.

 

$12k guesstimate was for a Lingenfelter build and the supporting parts.

 

LPE is expensive and if you are bulding the motor I would not go through them. I would keep the stock intake and have it ported the S/R is a great intake but if you stray to far from LPE's recomended cam you may be in uncharted teritory as far as what the final results will be. What are your goals for the motor? If it is just the most HP then I would recomend a solid roller cam and a set of heads that are going to flow enough to take atvantage of the cam. Now if you lan on driving this thing on the street there are a couple of members on this board that can probably put togeather a great head cam package and even recomend what C/R to set the motor up at for the results you are looking for.

 

Ah Lingenfelter is expensive, people think its the best because of the name. But now days you can find parts that put out just as much power or more for less. Although I have a friend that wants a Lingenfelter block thats sleeved for a 427 for his LS1 for 2k, I guess thats not too bad.

 

The LPE 383 with the Superram package made 415 rwhp thru an M6 from a Car Craft article in 1996...With a little tuning it went to 420-425 rwhp which aint too shabby for a small cammed 383. The cam specs for the Superram are 219/219 .560"/560" on I think a 112...I won't argue that their prices are a little out of hand, but their stuff works and lasts. Durability is a MAJOR factor in their build ups, and they have to because of the their warranites, plus they have to be 50 state emissions legal.

I would have loved to have my LPE 383 freshened by them, but cost was a major factor, plus they no longer do any R&D on LT1 stuff. They have two proven 383 cams, both are small...211/219 for the stock intake and the 219/219 for the SR. My LPE 383 ran fine for 10 years and countless 1/4 passes without any failures or maintenance other that plugs, wires, and oil changes! If you want a durable, streetable, emissions legal 11 second capable motor then go with an LPE package, fully assembled, and tuned, BUT you will pay upwards of $12K easy. FWIW I ran 11.70s with that 383 package and got 24 mpg on the highway. You can do cheaper, but you definitely will not be disappointed with the LPE stuff...

--Alan

 

more info on what i want in 2 parts, but don't bash me cuz i don't know much at all about the motors or anything but i am trying to learn as i go.

Part 1:
I want a really nice looking motor with all the billet aluminum, and powdercoated aluminum or ceramic coated stuff i can get, I want a really shiny motor compartment that when you open it up all you see is a silver color with very LITTLE wires, i want them to be hidden or ran somewhere that isn't as noticeable


Part 2:
I want a torquey monster of a motor that will make my driveshaft look like a christmas bow after stepping on it. But i want it to get decent gas mileage 16-20 mpg and run on WISHING 91 octane....don't think so though but i wish it would. Because i enjoy cruising on hot summer nights, and well right now i drive it all the time, But once my PROJECT starts I won't hardly drive it at all cept with car club cruises and shows... I do want to have well over or around 350 hp to the wheels with the torque above it by like 10% more or higher...budget is 10-15k (7k already budgeted for paint job) and has to cover engine compartment, chassis, drivetrain, exhaust & suspension

 

and then...

if you only want 350ish rwhp and 385ish rwtq, then you dont need all the goodies you listed above. if I wanted 350 rwhp on a 383 I'd probably do lloyd's LE1 package on a budget 383 bottom end. Im not sure youd even need a forged crank? Id ask guys who know more than I do about that one though. I bet you'd be able to do 370 rwhp with lloyd's LE1 package on a 383 and it would be a great all around driver. lots of low end torque. put a < 3000 rpm stall in it and it would be a fun little torque monster/tire fryer.
My 383 with its huge cam still "seems" like a low end brute. when my converter is locked and im at 50 mph around 1800 rpm I can step on the gas slightly and it'll effortlessly pick up.

soooo if I were you Id do (for 350+rwhp and 10% more torque):
budget rotating assembly with nodular iron or whatever crank... dont think youd need forged cause you wouldnt be spinning much over 6000 if at all, forged pistons & rods.
lloyd's LE1 heads & cam with ported LT1 intake
try to keep the compression up, I made the mistake of getting -16cc dish pistons and my dynamic compression ratio is loooow. find out from lloyd or whoever you get the heads and cam from what would be an ideal compression ratio and try to shoot for it. let him know you want to run on 91 octane too.
all the valvetrain goodies (stock replacement lifters, pushrods, rockers, guideplates if necessary)
replace timing chain
figure in gaskets which will run you between $150-200
new plugs and wires which you might as well do if everything is outta there
16-20 mpg could be possible. I get 9-11 with a loose converter, big cam, lots of cold starts & short trips, and a lead foot. about 13-14 on the highway. if you get 3.42s in the rear or 3.23s if you want better economy it may work better. you'd have the torque to live with it. 3.73s will eat your gas mileage down a bit!
then get a good dyno tune or a mail order tune if you dont want to get a dyno tune.

while your engine is apart just polish up the fuel rails, get the intake powder coated, maybe get those corvette valve cover covers. powder coat the water pump. get that shiney radiator cover ive seen. good luck getting rid of all those wires lol. I dunno much about dressing up if you ever looked at my engine it looks dirty and bone stock. untill you start it up

you should hit 350+rwhp NO PROBLEM.

edit: forgot about your tb and injectors... you could get away with a 52mm tb but Id go 58 just in case you ever want to get more out of the engine. 52 should flow enough. for injectors I picked 38lb/hour so you most likely wouldnt need that high with your hp goals.

 

IMHO you need more valve and the lift to go with it if you want to twist over 6000rpm.

Bret