ok. this summer i want to tackle the 383 upgrade.

i was looking at a lunati rotating assembly........i dont know the heads or cam yet, but i do want a new block. I dont want to use mine. (92kmiles on a 97)

after everything gets done. Im gonna spray a 200 nx wet shot on top of all of that. I was curious as too.........


what numbers is a 383 CAPABLE of putting down....(with the right head/cam combo and tune)....n/a

are we looking at 500 rwhp 550 rwhp........or what???


Thanks guys..............i appreciate it

 

What HP a 383 is capable of isn't really useful information for a buildup; at least that I have found. Set your goals and then build a car with enough HP to achieve it.

For instance, you could build a budget 383 for ~$4,000 and make 400rwhp or you could build one for ~$14,000 and make 525rwhp, or you could build one for ~$24,000 and make 575rwhp. So, as with most things, it all depends on $$$.

Why wouldn't you want to use your factory block? And why would it's current mileage have anything to do with using it for a 383 build?

 

ok. maybe i should have said my price............all i want to spend on the motor is 6 at max............................so what kind of power do you think i could put down......i mean if its only 400rwhp i wont bother doing it...............thats what im curious about. what is a 383 capable of doing, with so much money. and as i said i just want to spend 6 on the motor. (heads, cam, injectors, rotating assembly, ignition, everything for the motor)

p.s. -- if i can make the power i want i will turn this car into a drag only car.
I want a low 10 if possible 9 sec. car.

i have everything else covered ( nitrous, auto w/stall, rear end, suspension), i just need to figure out some stuff about the engine....thanks

 

strokers are made mostly for the tq,you may see a 350 with 350hp and 350tq but a 383 generally would see 370hp but 445tq,(depending if same parts are used)now add your NX unit to the mix (200 you say)you should be capable of 550-580hp and 645-660tq,i say build a 383 or a 396 you can stay in the budget for 6,000 bucks depending on the parts you buy and where you get them from,shop wisely!

 

Fine. Give it to me then. I could use a well seasoned block that's never been re-built.

 

Just use your block. Save some money. Unless there are windows in the cylinders, it's fine. Your going to have to have everything line bored and honed anyways on either your block or a new block, and I highly doubt you will find a used block with less miles on it than yours

-Shannon

 

what is the difference between the 383 and the 396 in HP and TQ?

 

The HP you are going to make depends mostly on the heads and cam that you use. I would say with race ported LT4 heads/intake with a larger runner(210 or 220 cc) and a nice big solid roller, 450-500rwhp shouldn't be too difficult.
Those heads(get them bare and take them to your local head porter or send them out to AI or LE) will cost $1,039. You will also need to get LT4 intake. Or $1389 for 215cc raised runner heads(bare).

 

Yes I agree, keep your block. It will be hot-tanked and machined, so when it comes back to you it will be BRAND NEW. Metal is metal. Period.

I was in your boat some 8 months ago when I started my 383 project. Now, finally done, I'm hoping for around 450-480rwhp NA but have not dynoed yet because I'm still fine tuning it. Check out my sig for mods.

Anyway, I thought this would cost me no more then $5000 (close to your estimate), but when the dust cleared I had spent over $10,000!! So take your estimate and multiply it by 2 to get a more realistic figure. There are many unforseen costs that will introduce themselves throughout the rebuild. Hope this helps.

 

I built my Bottom end on my 383 for less than 2500$

I used a eagle cast steel crank, eagle 5.7 rods and KB pistons (clevite bearings,speed pro rings).

I went the cheap way just wanting 400 hp and dependable, it is that by far, I trap a 3750 pound vehicle at 116 mph and run high 11s with out even trying.

Imagine if I had put forged pistons in it and ran an extra 150 shot?

Around town it has more torque than I need, anything below 40 cannot be full throttle on street tires or you're fighting to keep the rear in the rear.

I'll have dyno numbers this summer after I get a few irritations fixed.

 

I honestly think you'll be in the 420~440rwhp range. Fast enough nonetheless.

 

yeah, i just want to make a little over 500 rwhp N/A. 520-550rwhp would be my ideal number.

This does not have to be an everyday driver. I would like.......(with nitrous, to have 700 or a little over to the wheels). If a 383 would be too much trouble putting those numbers down i can go with a 396. I know my hp will come from the right head a cam combo, which is what im counting on. I dont know what type of heads i need and what cam will be the best with those heads. I really just need someone to call and talk to about all of it.


Thanks, Scott

 

$6k and 550rwhp N/A aren't even in the same equation.

 

To give you an idea. I have a 383 that will be dyno'd w/in the next couple weeks that I finished recently. It has AFR 220 heads and a Cam Motion solid roller. I'm expecting ~500rwhp through a ported LT4 intake and 1 3/4" longtubes. I have about $10,000 invested in the motor and that doesn't include exhaust, clutch, drivetrain, suspension, k-member, tuning, etc.

 

just to answer your other question, the hp difference between a 396 and 383 is simply due to the fact that you have 16 more cubic inches...and typically you can find a 383 rotating assembly a heck of a lot cheaper than a 396, then you can put the money you save into a great set of heads and be making more hp than the 396. I dont think it is really possible to put down 500 rwhp NA on only 6k. You will need 2500-3000k for the rotating assembly, and prolly like 2k worth of heads and head work to even get close. At this point your budget is practically shot already...then you have all the little stuff that just drains you. Realistically 8k is prolly closer to what you will need. If u decide to get rid of the block, pm me, i am always looking for a spare lt1 block to have sitting on the stand