383 oil pan
Re: 383 oil pan
I spent a month on this problem. I was about to get the TPIS pan and the miloden windage tray, but wasn't for sure the tray would fit my studs. Finally said screw it, wasn't really much more money for the Canton. I bought mine for $256 and $30ish for the pickup.
Re: 383 oil pan
I've seen the stock pan support an 8,000rpm, 1,125HP LT1. Clearancing for the crank was minimal. I use the same approach... stock pan, stock pump, 80psi spring.
Re: 383 oil pan
How would i go about clearancing it? I figured i'd put the pan on while it's on the engine stand and turn the crank over slowly. When it hits the pan, notice where it hit and bang that out a bit and continue doing this until there is enough room.
So if i use the stock pan I won't have a windage tray, correct?
So if i use the stock pan I won't have a windage tray, correct?
Re: 383 oil pan
From what I understand the windage tray on LT1s is bolted to the main cap studs. I emailed golen, the company building my engine and the guy said "You can only use the tray that is attached to the pan with this setup, not the bolt on tray because it hits the crank." I assumed he meant i'd have to get an aftermarket pan so i assumed the canton one was my only choice.
Does the stock pan have a built in windage tray and will i be fine with simply the stock pan and nothing bolted to the main cap studs? This build up is costing me enough, i don't want to spend $300 when i don't have to.
Does the stock pan have a built in windage tray and will i be fine with simply the stock pan and nothing bolted to the main cap studs? This build up is costing me enough, i don't want to spend $300 when i don't have to.
Re: 383 oil pan
If you run without a windage tray your not only lossing out on some free HP but under high RPM or acceleration the oil will tend to creep up the pan and away from the oil pump. A $300 pan is cheaper than a rebuild.
The stock pan doesn't have an integrated windage tray but it is bolted to the main caps.
I'm not really sure why the built in tray is the only way to go with the golen engine with the exception of the stud clearance. With that said however, there is no reason not to trust golen's opinion on this if you trusted them enough to build your engine.
I'm going with a stock pump and high pressure spring, stock pan and Miloden double diamond windage tray for my 383. Honestly, I'm just duplicating a successful idea.
The stock pan doesn't have an integrated windage tray but it is bolted to the main caps.
I'm not really sure why the built in tray is the only way to go with the golen engine with the exception of the stud clearance. With that said however, there is no reason not to trust golen's opinion on this if you trusted them enough to build your engine.
I'm going with a stock pump and high pressure spring, stock pan and Miloden double diamond windage tray for my 383. Honestly, I'm just duplicating a successful idea.
Re: 383 oil pan
My stock windage tray that bolted to the main bearing cap bolts would not clear my Eagle H-beams. Instead of clearancing the thing, I just bought the Canton 242-t oil pan. It does have a built in windage tray and crank scraper that Canton claims have enough clearance for 383's.
So I suppose I bought that pan for two reasons- 1) more oil capacity, and 2) built in windage tray so I didn't have to buy a separate one or make the stock one work.
So I suppose I bought that pan for two reasons- 1) more oil capacity, and 2) built in windage tray so I didn't have to buy a separate one or make the stock one work.
Re: 383 oil pan
I'm not sure if mine it the MIL-32250 or the MIL-32255.
I think its the 32255 but I'll have to wait till I get home to check it out.
It is not clearanced but my understanding is that minor modifications need to be made to make it work. In this case, employing a ball peen hammer again will give the needed clearance for the rod. You just have to bend the mess down a little. I know others have used this tray before but I have not had the chance to get it on my shortblock yet. When I do I think I'm going to document all the changes and modifications that I had to do so that people like us have more info and guidance when making the windage tray choice for their build up.
I think its the 32255 but I'll have to wait till I get home to check it out.
It is not clearanced but my understanding is that minor modifications need to be made to make it work. In this case, employing a ball peen hammer again will give the needed clearance for the rod. You just have to bend the mess down a little. I know others have used this tray before but I have not had the chance to get it on my shortblock yet. When I do I think I'm going to document all the changes and modifications that I had to do so that people like us have more info and guidance when making the windage tray choice for their build up.


