this wont happen for a long time, give or take two year but im just starting some research on this
what i am planning on doing is forgeing my whole bottom end a lower my compression for a supercharger...also matching cam etc

well what would be my best of choice ...since im litterally gonna take my whole engine apart to do other things, should i just make it a supercharged 350 or have it built out to a 383..i wanna make some serious numbers otu of this....as money will go i probably wont have enough to have it machined to a 383 i want to know some opinions from u guys..
would there be much of a difference between the the two or not ..

If no corners were cut in the design/build of either engine, you could expect somewhere between a 6 and 8% difference in power. Or so I was told by several engine builders ... Which makes sense since a 383 is close to 10% more displacement ... And its not going to achieve perfect efficiency for its size increase. Also ... It really isnt that much cheaper to make a forged 355/350 then it is for a 383.

I plan on eventually doing mine ( Money holds me back now ) similar to this, 383 on boost, with custom cam/heads ... And from what I've read, 383 is the way to go. Dont get cube crazy and get a 396 though as this would likely make the cylinder walls too thin to be realiable/they would heat up more/faster too.

Good luck.

I'm pretty sure that a 396 has the same .030 overbore as a 383, it just has a longer stroke. From what i've heard the only downside is that they don't rev as high or as quickly because of the extra mass of the rotating assembly.

You can still make a 383 rev to 7500 as long as the bottom end is built right.

The 396 still uses the .030 overbore, but with a 3.85" stroke instead of the 3.75" stroke the 383 uses.

If you're building a motor with a forged rotating assembly, the only real difference in price is the additional clearancing needed for the longer crank throws. Everything else should be about the same.

how much more do u think it would be to go to 383 from 350 instead of doing a S/C 350 and doing teh S/C 383...
just lloking for a range

also is it worth the 8% increase in power?

It's going to vary by machine shop. Probably figure around $500 extra is probably a good base to start with.

Also, on a blown engine, the extra cubes are going to make more difference than 8%. The torque alone is going to be worth it.

The stroke for the 396 build is actually 3.875.

I'd just build the 383. More options in pistons and a bit more rod-to-camshaft clearance for large cams. The power differences are negligable.

-Mindgame

10 percent (boosted) power at 450 rwhp is at least 45 hp. This is of course being conservative since boost is inthe mix. The cubes would actually be much larger since there is more area to compact the air into.

A 396 to a 383 is not much more power , but with more headach in clearancing, the 383 is a basice pan rail clearancing and a touch off of a few rods, the 396 is guaranteed that and some pan,possibly piston and definately a small base circle cam.

The 350 boosted will make some serious power, but the potential with a 383 is alot more.

Plan on about 400$ more with all parts being equal. But that is not the whole picture, you now must make the fuel and exhaust keep up. If you already have a good exhaust then all you'll need is the fuel system and tuning.

The added torque and power will also stress your transmission and rear end. There is impact to installing more power in a car... When I first installed my stroker shortblock, I immediately spun the tranny and had to have a rebuild. I already had a 12 bolt because I had broken the stock rear with the original motor a couple of times.

Plan on at least a six point welded bar to be safe and stiffen the suspension, a five point harness, decent shocks and springs, get new poly or solid mounts for motor and tranny, and in my opinion it is better to do things slowly and properly than to buy junk and break parts.

this i do know...right nwo i am running teh 255lph fuel pump...im gonan get larger injectors and the proper tuneing...exhaust wise if i run true duals its prolly gonna be 2.5-3 inch and x-pipe and im gonna use teh chambers off my GMMG..also hooker headers.etc antything else ic an possibly use tell me

i am purchasing a 12 bolt and 17x11 ZR1s with 315 DRs on the back..also planning n strenthening teh tranny...ive thought this out somewhat but am still planning....also a roll cage in lined up for me ....

like i said im planning on spending some serious money and making some serious power..
will all the suspension in my sig also help me out?...
should i go all adjustable?

with the power i want i will probably purchase the BMR track pack and a few otehr things


if anybody has any opinions for me pleeese tell me
thanks
bobby