im going to build the LT1 as a 377 (stock bore, 3.750 stroke) anyways, will the crank clear the stock oil pan or do i need an aftermarket one?if so, which one? same with the oil pump, stock or aftermarket? do this things have windage trays?


keep in mind that this is going tobe a VERY mild 377. looking for 350RWHP TOPS!!!!

 

Unless you have a new block I'm not sure why you don't want to do a 3.75" stroke.

With rods that are not very wide I.E. Eagles then you will be fine with a stock pan.

Stock pumps are actually VERY good, ever hear of one fail.

Bret

 

Stock pan will work fine, might need some convincing by the machine shop.

Stock pump is fine, if you like security get the pickup welded, and you could throw a white spring in there (80psi).

Yes there is a windage tray, might i also suggest ARP main studs.

Just curious, did your stock crank crap out or why are you replacing if you want mild?

 

Moving to LT1 Tech.....

 

Stock pan will work but it will need alittle massaging on the shallow end with a hammer to get the rods to clear....even with the Eagles which I used. Stock widage try want work but you can find some aftermarket ones that will.

Stock pump is fine.....just tack weld the pickup as allready mentioned.

 

This is not necessarly true.

It is more based on which crankshaft you use that will determine if the stock pan can be used with no modifications..

Example. I built a 381 ci (.010 overbore X 3.750 stroke) and it used a Lunati forged rotating assembly. The stock pan fit with no problems.

I built a 383 that had an Eagle rotating assembly (H-beam). The counterbalances on the Eagle crank were much bigger than the Lunati and it caused clearance issues. So did the rods. I had to modify the pan a good bit for it to work. But a stock an can works most of the time even if you have to beat it some. I had to pound out the top middle of the pan, and also the side of the pan near the dipstick tube opening.

A stock oil pump will work just fine. They made 2 different size pickups until i think 1996 when they made the larger diameter standard. But I would buy the GM stocker larger diameter pickup pump.... Or just order a 1996 pump and pickup. I know these came only witht eh larger one. Like already mentioned, tack the pickup and ditch the stock plastic retainer for the oil pump drive shaft for a metal one.

Personally I think there is no need for an aftermarket pan unless you are planning on road racing .

I have used stock pumps to around 600RWHP , and also knwo guys who pushed way more than that, with no need for a high volume pump .

 

I'm with the dude above. I just did mine and went with Eagle H-beams and ended up gettting a Canton pan (AWESOME). I wasn't into hitting the pan with a hammer nor trying to look for an aftermarket tray. Some guys just took the tray out, but I believe its there for a darn good reason.

 

Is the windage tray on the Canton built into the pan? I would like to try to use my stock pan but want to definitly have a windage tray. I have heard from most that the stock tray will not clear most 3.75 cranks. I will probably end up getting the Canton pan but need to know which ARP main studs to get. Apologies for breaking into your question 96LT14u2Nv. Just figured why everyone was on the subject.

 

I need to know that answer too. My machine shop is going to order my Main studs and they advised me to use a windage tray.

 

I would guess you could pick up a milodon windage tray, like the diamond stripper or something similar, I think they are clearanced for strokers, and fit any SBC.

LT1s even in this app are the same, even with studs, 2bolt, 4bolt, doesnt matter. Might be different on 86up though with 1piece, not positive.

Like mentioned, main reason for a canton or similar is road racing with oil movin around all the time its good to have some extra in there, but for street or straight line use, IMO a waste of $400.

Get the new pump, or even a melling OEM, high pressure spring (stay away from high volume, cause cavitation from what I hear), tack the pickup, beat the pan where necessary and call it a day.

 

Be careful of the Milodon tray, requires it's own studs. Canton has a well engineered tray built in, so no additional tray is required. OEM tray interfers with 3.75" stroke. To get what I wanted, started with ARP studs, and modded them from there, to get modded oem tray to clear, and work with canton pan. Definitely NOT plug and play.

 

Didn't mean I wanted to use the stock tray with a Canton pan (sorry if my question was unclear) I would like to use the stock pan if possible and a tray. Just keep hearing that it's nearly impossible. So if I do get the Canton I was needing to know if the tray was built in (thanks for the answer by the way.) so I knew to get studs for a tray or not. What set up do you have with the modded ARP studs?

 

I wedged that answer in there also: ["OEM tray interfers with 3.75" stroke. To get what I wanted, started with ARP studs, and modded them from there, to get modded oem tray to clear"]

Either dimple and/or cut/slice and bend, at the offending areas. I extended the tray attaching part of the studs as well. Don't recall how the 'stud extending' (plus or minus) would have been affected, to clear with the oem pan. For me, it was a mute point/issue. You may have more depth clearance available with oem pan.

What set up do you have with the modded ARP studs?

["To get what I wanted, started with ARP studs, and modded them from there, to get modded oem tray to clear, and work with canton pan."]
If not answered above, in addition to stud extending (with long set screws and very tall nuts) a little dimpling of tray, to clear rods, and perimeter trimming of tray, to clear those matching areas of canton. Labor intensive. Oem tray w/ canton overkill? Maybe.

 

Thanks Arnie! I think I am at least going to try to get the stock pan/tray to work with modification first (trying to save $250.00). If I have any douts during the process I will just get the Canton pan.

 

http://members.fortunecity.com/gripenfelter/383.html

My 383.

Scrll down till you see the bottom of the oil pan.