383 LT1 issues, help please
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Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 42
From: Gilbert, AZ USA
383 LT1 issues, help please
Can someone help with these little issues....
1.) We built a 383 LT1 for my friends '95 Z28, some parts include AFR 190 heads, port and polished LT1 intake to match heads, J& E Pistons (10.5 compression), Manley Rods, Eagle crank ( I think), Hydra Rev Kit, Crane 1.6 rockers, High pressure oil pump, Griffin Radiator, Meizre waterpump, Canton oil pan, Comp Cams 306, MSD, March underdrive pullies, Holly 58mm TB, Hooker long tubes, etc etc The car made 401 RWHP and 382 RWTQ on the dyno, and the car wasn't tuning right, the graph was all messed up at first but got a little better, still not very smooth, the car wouldn't respond very well to us leaning it out, or making it rich, etc. We tuned it before we added the MSD though, haven't redynoed to see if the MSD helped, may have been ignition related, not sure. Anyways, we aren't very pleased with the dyno numbers, what do you guys think? Would going with a bigger cam help? It passed emmissons with flying colors here in AZ, just like stock. Could it be the fuel pressure? We have 30 lb injectors and a stock fuel pump.
2.) We have been seeing some oil in the coolant, the compression test came out beautiful, not a thing out of order, so a head gasket doesn't seem to be the factor. It makes the coolant all chocolate milk like, not very pretty, any idea what could be causing oil to get in the coolant and no coolant in the oil??
3.) When we are cruising in a low gear like 2nd for example, and we are at lower RPM's say 2000 or less, the car will surge/studder/jerk when you are just cruising along in a neighborhood or something. What could be causing this? Too lean? cam?
4.) Canton oil pan leaks, we have heard this is common, any way to fix that? Lots of RTV sealant??
The car runs REAL strong as it is, but we want it to be perfect and not have these little issues, so any info you can lend would be awesome!!!
I will try to get the dyno graph posted so you can see what we are looking at, I appreciate any help, thanks!
1.) We built a 383 LT1 for my friends '95 Z28, some parts include AFR 190 heads, port and polished LT1 intake to match heads, J& E Pistons (10.5 compression), Manley Rods, Eagle crank ( I think), Hydra Rev Kit, Crane 1.6 rockers, High pressure oil pump, Griffin Radiator, Meizre waterpump, Canton oil pan, Comp Cams 306, MSD, March underdrive pullies, Holly 58mm TB, Hooker long tubes, etc etc The car made 401 RWHP and 382 RWTQ on the dyno, and the car wasn't tuning right, the graph was all messed up at first but got a little better, still not very smooth, the car wouldn't respond very well to us leaning it out, or making it rich, etc. We tuned it before we added the MSD though, haven't redynoed to see if the MSD helped, may have been ignition related, not sure. Anyways, we aren't very pleased with the dyno numbers, what do you guys think? Would going with a bigger cam help? It passed emmissons with flying colors here in AZ, just like stock. Could it be the fuel pressure? We have 30 lb injectors and a stock fuel pump.
2.) We have been seeing some oil in the coolant, the compression test came out beautiful, not a thing out of order, so a head gasket doesn't seem to be the factor. It makes the coolant all chocolate milk like, not very pretty, any idea what could be causing oil to get in the coolant and no coolant in the oil??
3.) When we are cruising in a low gear like 2nd for example, and we are at lower RPM's say 2000 or less, the car will surge/studder/jerk when you are just cruising along in a neighborhood or something. What could be causing this? Too lean? cam?
4.) Canton oil pan leaks, we have heard this is common, any way to fix that? Lots of RTV sealant??
The car runs REAL strong as it is, but we want it to be perfect and not have these little issues, so any info you can lend would be awesome!!!
I will try to get the dyno graph posted so you can see what we are looking at, I appreciate any help, thanks!
Last edited by Hugger SS 2049; May 12, 2004 at 08:10 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 356
From: SOUTH BEND IN USA
With the 306 cam your really going to have to wind it out to make some power. Not sure how high you were revving it on the dyno.
When your just puttin around town it might surge a little at low rpm's like that.
Also for your oil in the radiator, do you still have the oil cooler on the motor? How does the oil look in the motor too?
When your just puttin around town it might surge a little at low rpm's like that.
Also for your oil in the radiator, do you still have the oil cooler on the motor? How does the oil look in the motor too?
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,724
From: Oklahoma where trees are made of wood.
It is possible to blow a head gasket and not disrupt cylender seal, But the oil cooler could be a culprit if still in place.Does the oil level go down any?
Sounds to me like you have an ignition problem I would check all components to make sure they are all good, grounds check your block grounds and see how they are, did you remove the paint from the grounding surface?
Are yo getting any knock?
Sounds to me like you have an ignition problem I would check all components to make sure they are all good, grounds check your block grounds and see how they are, did you remove the paint from the grounding surface?
Are yo getting any knock?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 42
From: Gilbert, AZ USA
LT1Tony - We are revving to 6800 RPM, we have the hydra rev kit on it so we are good to 7000+ RPM safely. I didn't know the 306 would be that bad driving around town, can we tune that bad area out of the cam for daily driving?? as for the oil cooler, I wasn't aware that a '95 Z came with one, I know my '97 SS had it as an option from SLP, but didn't know they were standard. I don't think he has one. And what do you mean how the oil looks in the motor? Like black?
WS Sick - The oil does go down before an oil change, actually the low oil light comes on, we are not exactly sure how many quarts the Canton oil pan holds, 6 maybe? We are afraid to put too much in there because we don't want to be easier for it to go in the coolant. We have an small oil leak from the pan too, which I guess is common with the Canton, so we need to redo that part. I don't think there is an oil cooler, where would it be located? Picture of it maybe?? We put the MSD on it, but haven't redynoed to see if it helped yet, I guess it can't hurt right?
Not sure what the person did on the install of the motor, I know he is VERY good at what he does, so I doubt he would forget the little things like the grounds, etc. We need to scan a run to see if it's getting knock, the guy I know that tuned it didn't say anything about knock on the dyno, but we'll check that out! Thanks!
Thanks for all the help so far, keep it coming!!
WS Sick - The oil does go down before an oil change, actually the low oil light comes on, we are not exactly sure how many quarts the Canton oil pan holds, 6 maybe? We are afraid to put too much in there because we don't want to be easier for it to go in the coolant. We have an small oil leak from the pan too, which I guess is common with the Canton, so we need to redo that part. I don't think there is an oil cooler, where would it be located? Picture of it maybe?? We put the MSD on it, but haven't redynoed to see if it helped yet, I guess it can't hurt right?
Not sure what the person did on the install of the motor, I know he is VERY good at what he does, so I doubt he would forget the little things like the grounds, etc. We need to scan a run to see if it's getting knock, the guy I know that tuned it didn't say anything about knock on the dyno, but we'll check that out! Thanks!Thanks for all the help so far, keep it coming!!
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