ILL make this quick. Im building my 383 right now. And Im getting ready to take my crank and block to the machine shop for clearaneing. My 383 with contain a 224/236 114lsa cam in my. I called the original makers of this custom cam and asked them if there would be any clearancing problems with this cam. They said no. (OF COURSE THEY WOULD) I wanna know if there is anyone out there using the cam that I have with a 383 and had NO Clearancing problems. Would I need to use stock 5.7 rods or go ith 6.0 rods?
Thanks
Chris
twins2004@verizon.net

 

Thats a blower cam, and a bit small for 383cid. Will you use blower?
I went with 6.0 rods btw.

 

It really depends on the base circle that the cam was ground on whether or not it will interfere with a rod or not.

 

Just no. NICE CAR!!
Yes I havn't selected pistons yet and Do plan on going with a blower in the future. I would like to keep the compression down becuase I need to smog it. I Figured less compression the better. WHich Rods do I go with? Heres the crank that I bought.

(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1)

its Nudolar IRON Crank. I have to use an External Balancer and Flexplate

Heres my Next issue. As I have been reading the post in regards to clearancing with an oil pan. I have read post of people buying the canton pan and still having to clearance the pan so that big *** crank and crank. So what is the true pan to use for my 383 LT1 with out issues? I hered of people using the stock oil pan. How Do I do that? (IM ON A BUDGET ANYWAY)
Chris

 

I have a very similar cam in my 383 setup, and my builder used the stock pan...I'm not exactly sure what he did to the pan it self if anything. He went with 6'' rods on a 113 LSA and .600+ lift.

 

Feel the speed is there anyway you can find out what he did.? That would be great. That would save me some money big time
CHris

 

A few things for thought:

Low compression will help NOx emissions, but hurt HC and CO.

Clearance depends on the rods. A stock style rod with 3.75" stroke will hit the stock cam. However, my Eagle H-beam rods don't hit my 224/236 cam and I didn't clearance them at all.

The block will have to be clearanced for the rod bolts, as will the stock pan. I had to put a small ding in my pan to clear.

Mike

 

Hey Mike or anyone. Just wondering. What is HC and CO. and NOx? Im sorry If I dont know those terms. I feel like I should but hey, there is always something to learn about these cars and motors. Also. When I take my block to the machine shop I need to give him the pan for clearances as well? I would love to use the stock pan. Oh. another things. What about the PICK UP TUBE? Do I have to get a bigger tubed or anything? And the oil pump. Can I use a regular oil pump?
Chris

 

NOx - Nitrogen oxides
HC - Hydrocarbons
CO - Carbon monoxide

All 3 are emissions tested on vehicles.

 

OH OK. Real Quick. SO basically it doesn't matter what the compression is Weather its 8:1 or 13:1 its going to put out the same emissions? Sounds good to me. Well I might keep the compression down anyway so I can run a Blower in the future. Will see. I still have questions in this forum about Pick up tubes and Oil pump. Can someone help??????
Chris

 

No no. I didnt say that. Lots of things will affect the emissions (a/F, engine temp, timing and probbaly compression). I was just letting you know what the terms meant.

 

It actually applies to any type of combustion device, not just LT1's. Everything from 18 cc trimmers to 150,000 hp gas turbines have to mind CO, HC, and NOx emissions.

Realquick is right, but I'd like to expand. Perfect combustion is HC + O2 -> CO2 + H2O. Anything else that comes out the tailpipe is unintentional.

NOx - Oxides of Nitrogen, including NO, NO2, and NO3. These are formed when Nitrigen and Oxygen are present at high temperature. High compression, advanced timing, and lean A/F ratio's increase NOx.

HC - Unburnt Hydrocarbons. This is fuel that escapes out the exhaust without being burnt. Camshaft overlap, low compression, retarded timing, and rich A/F ratio increases HC.

CO - Carbon Monoxide. Not all of the Carbon atoms get the Oxygen they need for complete combustion. So, you get some CO instead of CO2 out the tailpipe. Rich A/F ratio's increase CO, while high compression reduces it since high compression gets more complete combustion.

You can see how, in general, the things that reduce NOx increase HC and CO, and vice versa. You can tune to a sweet spot that gets all to a minimum, but that will only get you so far. That's why we have emission control equipment. A 3 way catalyst reduces all 3.

The machine shop can clearance it or you can. They may charge you $50 for a small ding you can make in 3 minutes with a ball peen hammer. Stock oil pickup tube is fine, as is the stock style oil pump. Alot of people install a M55HV, but it's not required.

Mike

 

Wow mike Thanks for all that info. That is all very helpful. THe small ding your talking about. I guess I would have to start getting into the rebuild to find that ding. Or Ill just keep emailing you about it LOL. Again thanks for the info. ANd the real reason for this post is to make sure that my Cam will clear. So I guess ILL be buying some H-beam rods
Thanks
Chris

 

I didn't realize mine needed one until the crank wouldn't spin after I installed the oil pan. If I remember right, it's back near the oil filter on the side rail. The pan rail turns toward the crank to avoil the oil filter and that's where it hits.

Mike

 

I used manley 5.7 H beam rods in mine with the 224/236 and mine cleared fine, I have a canton pan for mine and I had to dent in the crank scraper a little to clear the rod bolts.