Ok... I've been doing some research. Can't find a direct enough answer so...

This is what i'm getting...

383 LT1 with splayed 4 bolt mains and the entire 9.
Fully Forged Eagle Bottom End (SRP Pistons on a -5cc dish)
11.8:1 SCR (Around 8.5:1 DCR)
LE3 Setup (Heads/Cam/Fully ported Intake) and 1.6rr
Heads flowed 284 cfm on the intake and 218 on the exhaust at .060 lift. (Don't have the entire flow chart but it's a pretty consistant climb from .040)
Electric Water Pump and Coyles Timing Chain
Pacesetter LT's, ORY, and Loudmouth II
McLeod Street Twin
Brand New Opti
37lbs Injectors
58mm BBK TB
Potent Valvetrain (Comp R Lifters, Chrome Moly Pushrods)
Tune from Ion @ MadZ28.com
Stock T56
Stock Driveshaft
Stock Rear



I am just wondering about the power output of this motor at the wheels.
I plan to do a 200 or a 250 Direct Port Nitrous, but thats not until I upgrade the tranny, ds, and rear...

Just looking some ballpark figures on some hp/tq numbers. Some trap ideas.

I am very close to sea level.

I also want to know how long my drivetrain will hold up n/a. I don't powershift but I do race the car. I don't launch on sticky tires, I would lay into it once the car is moving.

 

Are those LT1 castings? if so... pretty impressive numbers! I would say with a good tune Lloyd's number of 430 through the t56 should be very attainable. I don't think ive seen any lt1 castings flow that much through the exhaust side. Especially at .060 lift! But, it should be potent! depending on car weight ~120mph? I would guess that your hp/tq should be fairly close with the 383. Any how, all of this is my guess... just wanted to see how close I am to what people who have better judgement will say! Good luck man!

 

Yea, Sometimes i think the numbers are a little inflated. I'd say you are pretty close on your HP estimates. As for your faces next to tranny and driveshaft they should be fine it may get a little iffy once you put it on nitrous. The rear end on the other hand will go pretty quick.

 

440 rwhp 400 rwtq 118 mph trap speeds

youve got a bigger power advantage than I do with the higher compression, LTs, no cat, electric water pump, and 6 speed.

my LE3 383 has gone 1500 miles without breaking anything, though the tranny was rebuilt when the engine swap took place. I have BFG DRs, Ive done a few dead stop launches, alot of already moving gas mashings.

could be because my car isnt running at 100%. or probably not even 80% that I havent broke anything yet.

I can't say how long your drivetrain would last since ive never owned a manual.

P.S. dont expect good gas mileage, my car just yielded a best of 11.5 mpg. you'll probably get a good deal of knock retard too... I think im gonna have to either disable mine or do that resistor mod.

edit: where in NJ are you?

 

Well, you have an auto which gets less gas mileage anyway... I was only hoping for 17mpg anyway. That seems to be out of reach, but I dunno... we'll see how it goes. Higher Compression I heard gives better gas mileage too. Hopefully driving calmly and chillin on the highway will get me where I want to be.

Did you dyno your car? You get any numbers? 440rwhp seems like an incredible number, that would rule if I got that.

Lloyds numbers aren't inflated... if you look, his exhaust numbers are always benched less then others, but making similar power and times (Sometimes better). Which numbers seem to be inflated then?

Flow numbers aren't the most important thing anyway.

I am not going to be hitting the nitrous on my stock drivetrain... I will be hitting it, but that will be in the future once the drivetrain can handle it and once I get the supporting mods to handle the shot.

Anyone else have any opinions?

 

Ya have the set up IF everything is spot on to make 500FWHP=450RWHP.
Ya start hooking it hard and the drive train(everything) gonna say c ya.

 

haha...I have the same setup, and was getting lots of knock retard. I had to go into the file and zero out the KR vs MAP. That took care of that..

 

my 11.5 mpg is good considering the driving conditions
daily driven so is started every day
cold starts every day
driven short distance (less than 5 miles)
theres a long straightaway going to work which I occasionaly take advantage of
so its mostly city driving
I have an auto with a 3500 rpm stall torque converter that locks at 50 mph, no less.
my car is not running correctly
I have a lead foot

you should get 17 on the highway.


my first few tanks I was getting 7 if that continued I was gonna sell the car.

 

are you running an open/closed loop tune, or only open?

 

Food for thought:

My 383 has the old LE2 heads, which are basically the new LE3 heads with different springs and the 2.0/1.56 valves. So you should see some gain over my setup there as mine flowed 273/190 @.600" My cam is the old Joe O 23x/24x LE2 setup with mid to upper 500s lift. I put 413/390 through a 9" with 4.33s, which is commonly said to take an additional 3% over a GM 10-bolt. If I still had the 10 bolt, it would calculate out to 425/402 SAE using 3% less loss. After doing a bunch of part throttle tuning, I have gotten as good as 18mpg pure hwy, 16mpg mixed, and 8mpg when having fun. Not knowing your cars weight, its hard to guess ET, but 117-118mph traps aren't out of the question if you can get the car to hook. The only problem is that you wont be able to launch the car on the 10 bolt, so kiss any good ET goodbye until you fix that issue.

 

I still say 415-430rwhp.

118-120mph traps is more what I am looking at. The dyno numbers could cary substantially depending on where it is done.

 

oh... EDIT

8:1 DCR and 11.9:1 SCR!! Not a big difference, but thought I might let you know those changes.

I'm hoping for 420rwhp-430rwhp... 440rwhp would own the world.

I can't wait to feel how drivable it is!!

Little nervous though... stock fuel pump and 37lbs injectors. No spray, but still!!

 

Thats horrible mileage. With my 3.90 heads and cam i've pulled about 24 mpg with 75% highway 25% city driving. I've never done all highway with it before.

 

How much power are you making though? I also haven't done a good pure hwy test since I couldn't care less about my gas mileage. 80mph puts me at about 2300rpm vs your 2050rpm. I don't use my car for highway trips, so when I do calculate the mileage it involves anything that may happen on the highway too. I am just giving realistic numbers here, because anyone with a motor like this probably doesn't want to go a whole tank without winding it out a few times.

EDIT: You are also running a 355, so I fail to see your comparison.

 

how did you figure out your DCR? did lloyd already give you the cam specs?