383 getting ready to drop in. Check my list.
sounds like the basics are covered. ATI damper, new MAP/CPS/Oil Pressure sensors would be good.
- ARP oil pump drive shaft?
- Oil pump drive saver?
- I went with GM Caddy lifters on my 396, I don't know much about the Crane ones.
- When you get the pushrod lengths figured out, step up to 3/8" ones... stock 5/16" just arn't worth it on high RPM engines.
- Given any thought to an Accusump?
- Larger radiator? Especially in houston I thought that'd be a given.
- New GM Pilot BEARING, not a bushing. My stock one handled 1/4 million miles.. half of that with a Street Twin and 3 years of drag racing. Heavy load and high rpm engines use bearings for a reason.
- New clutch T-bolt (the T wears after a while... plus you get a chance to replace the stock bolt with a grade 8 version to prevent problems with the clutch fork).
- SFI approved bellhousing.
- aluminium flywheel and McLeod Street Twin clutch.
- mechanical fuel pressure gauge to sit on/near intake manifold... this is great help on new or modified engines IMO. If you really want to get fancy, get an electric sending unit and pipe it to the AC compressor wire for logging through the stock PCM, or feed it to a WB O2 input.
- WB O2 with logging and gauge output. I use a Dynojet WB Commander (it has a cool programable solenoid output feature no one else has, plus RPM, TB, and 1 other 0-5v input, along with internal logging or laptop logging).
-
- ARP oil pump drive shaft?
- Oil pump drive saver?
- I went with GM Caddy lifters on my 396, I don't know much about the Crane ones.
- When you get the pushrod lengths figured out, step up to 3/8" ones... stock 5/16" just arn't worth it on high RPM engines.
- Given any thought to an Accusump?
- Larger radiator? Especially in houston I thought that'd be a given.
- New GM Pilot BEARING, not a bushing. My stock one handled 1/4 million miles.. half of that with a Street Twin and 3 years of drag racing. Heavy load and high rpm engines use bearings for a reason.

- New clutch T-bolt (the T wears after a while... plus you get a chance to replace the stock bolt with a grade 8 version to prevent problems with the clutch fork).
- SFI approved bellhousing.

- aluminium flywheel and McLeod Street Twin clutch.
- mechanical fuel pressure gauge to sit on/near intake manifold... this is great help on new or modified engines IMO. If you really want to get fancy, get an electric sending unit and pipe it to the AC compressor wire for logging through the stock PCM, or feed it to a WB O2 input.
- WB O2 with logging and gauge output. I use a Dynojet WB Commander (it has a cool programable solenoid output feature no one else has, plus RPM, TB, and 1 other 0-5v input, along with internal logging or laptop logging).
-
Wow guys I LOL when I saw this thread back up. I have been good. Work has been killing me, however.
I had been waiting on a few things to get the engine running, and got delayed by hurricane IKE.
As of last week I got my D/A strange shocks, and have the tubular k ready to go in next week. BTW does anybody know how to put together the Strange shocks with springs?
I quit my job for personal reasons after saving up some money, so I am going to put way more time into this.
Here is a couple pics of the crap from the hurricane. I had sheet rock all over all of my motor parts. Thank god I had the engine covered well. The tree poked a whole into the garage.

I had been waiting on a few things to get the engine running, and got delayed by hurricane IKE.
As of last week I got my D/A strange shocks, and have the tubular k ready to go in next week. BTW does anybody know how to put together the Strange shocks with springs?
I quit my job for personal reasons after saving up some money, so I am going to put way more time into this.
Here is a couple pics of the crap from the hurricane. I had sheet rock all over all of my motor parts. Thank god I had the engine covered well. The tree poked a whole into the garage.

Thanks, I just happened to be on vacation while all of it went down. I was in a cabin in montana watching the news all night. My stomach turned when I knew the eye was coming thru my town.
I am really anxious to make some progress on this build for sure.
I am really anxious to make some progress on this build for sure.
Ok here is the update on this.
I wound up going with the EFI connection 24x conversion with drive by wire throttle body. I had a custom harness made by EFI connection that will be going on soon. (just got it about 2 weeks ago)
Just got a base tune back on my LS1 PCM for this car and had to run a 2002 corvette tune to help control the throttlbody. (since it is drive by wire at this point) From what I understand it is one of a kind right now, as nobody else has gone the drive by wire route with LT1 F body yet. Benefits of running this system will be much improved idle with bigger cams, and computer is supposed to make more power over stock setup. Overall this is a much better setup than what I was going with originally.
I am so anxious to start this car and hear it run! I will be taking a initial startup vid and still need to bleed fluids and break in engine. After that it is going for a dyno tune. I also need to get it aligned, because so much tubular stuff has gone on car it is wayyy out of alignment.
Here are a few pics . Car also got a new hood.






I wound up going with the EFI connection 24x conversion with drive by wire throttle body. I had a custom harness made by EFI connection that will be going on soon. (just got it about 2 weeks ago)
Just got a base tune back on my LS1 PCM for this car and had to run a 2002 corvette tune to help control the throttlbody. (since it is drive by wire at this point) From what I understand it is one of a kind right now, as nobody else has gone the drive by wire route with LT1 F body yet. Benefits of running this system will be much improved idle with bigger cams, and computer is supposed to make more power over stock setup. Overall this is a much better setup than what I was going with originally.
I am so anxious to start this car and hear it run! I will be taking a initial startup vid and still need to bleed fluids and break in engine. After that it is going for a dyno tune. I also need to get it aligned, because so much tubular stuff has gone on car it is wayyy out of alignment.
Here are a few pics . Car also got a new hood.






That is the mechanical end of the 24x conversion. It replaces the stock reluctor wheel on crank(96 and 97 had a reluctor for misfire) with a 24 position reluctor. This helps ls1 PCM keep tabs on crank position.
The upper reluctor wheel on cam end creates a way for the plate mounted sensor to give cam position to PCM.
The PCM uses both of these sensors to make calculations for when to fire the coil packs. (I have mounted ls2 coil packs)
Basically you get rid of your front mounted optispark, and gain tuning flexability, while making more overall power. All of this needs a different harness or one that's been modified.
The upper reluctor wheel on cam end creates a way for the plate mounted sensor to give cam position to PCM.
The PCM uses both of these sensors to make calculations for when to fire the coil packs. (I have mounted ls2 coil packs)
Basically you get rid of your front mounted optispark, and gain tuning flexability, while making more overall power. All of this needs a different harness or one that's been modified.
Last edited by Dave1980; May 24, 2010 at 12:02 PM.



Hood is sunoco wide.

