1quickTA

I was thinking about going with the Scat cast steel crank, but then saw this Eagle one that is LT1 specific. What makes it LT1 specific?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...L&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...E&autoview=sku

Also, would this be the correct Scat crank for an LT1?

SS MPSTR

1-pc rear seal makes it "LT1 appropriate". I'd opt for the Scat over the Eagle any day IMO.

BIGCOWL-IMP

Don`t buy either if you do the first thing you need to do is take it to a crank shop and have it machined and trued. Do it right the first time and get a 4340 Callies crank and not there compstar.

SS RRR

You should take any crank you buy to a machine shop to be "machined and trued" and by that I mean balanced along with the rest of your rotating assy. There is nothing wrong with Compstar. However I have an Eagle crank and had two problems:
Had to order an oversized throw out bushing. Eagle is aware of the problem and if you prove purchase they will send one for free or you can get a knurled throwout bearing.
I had to have the center of my flywheel reemed out a few thousandths because it would not fit onto the crank. As stated before, it's crap made and inspected in China. I believe Compstar may be made in China, but QC is done in the states.

1quickTA

I would rather go with Scat. Is the 2nd link above the correct one for an LT1 application?

spiritaces

callies is the way to go

rskrause

Compstar is excellent.

Rich

1quickTA

I understand that Compstar is a better piece. However, I am trying to keep the cost down and do not see myself going beyond the limits of the Scat cast steel crank. Has anyone had any major problems with a Scat 9000 series crank? (very bad tolerances or breakage?)

96capricemgr

I would put Eagle as bottom of the barrel quality wise, at least as far as what is being discussed.

I believe all the machining on Compstar is done stateside not just QC, it is pretty good stuff.

Go through and honestly add up every dime you plan to spend on the rotating assembly and then compare it too the very complete Compstar speedpack which I would trust right out of the box. I would trust Callies balance job over most local shops even. Price difference may not be as big as you think.

If you are planning on a $230 crank $300 rods and $350 pistons figure another $160+ in balancing, add bearings and pistons and even with the cheapest but somewhat reliable stuff you can buy you are still going to be in say $1300 and the Compstar stuff is just over $2000 but is a good bit better. Not that big a difference when you should be spending at least $2000-2500 on the topend too and a few hundred more in gaskets.

caldercay

Yes, Callies is the way to go. My local crank grinder says that over
80% of the Scat units he is given to verify need more re-work than
they should have. The engine shop down the street has the same
opinion. I was talking to the owner and I mentioned, "Scat", and
his eyes rolled back in his head. He said he sends all Scat cranks
and "balanced rotating assemblies" to the crank grinder and some
re-work is required (ie, more than should be necessary). So, the
customer has to pay *more* money than they should have.

96capricemgr

And just about everyone who has handled both says Scat is better than Eagle.

MachinistOne

Scat is much better than Eagle, Compstar is better than both of those by a mile. I would absolutely consider a Compstar crank to be the best crank in the "budget" category.

1quickTA

Wow, I am feeling peer pressure
So are you saying that with this kit, I would probably not need to have it rebalanced? I would like to do the rebuild myself and save where I can (but I don't want to be stupid and skimp on the really important stuff just to have to redo it soon either).

96capricemgr

Just look at it. I have seen too many guys spend money on the "same" parts repeatedly because they regret having done things "cheap" the first time.

A friend is looking at swapping heads and now thinks he needas to swap pistons to get compression right and it is just snowballing. The engine is barely 2 years old, Scat crank, rebuilt stock rods, some Ross nitous pistons he got lightly used cheap from the machine shop. Car sounds like a diesel the pistons are so loose which is part of why he wants them out of there. So now he is looking at maybe Mahle pistons and 6" rods and in the end he is kicking himself for trying to do it too cheap the first timebecause he is looking at spending over a grand on redoing it and still having a $200 crank in it.
Aiming for a little overkill is cheaper in the long run and sometimes even in the short run.

This is one of those lesson we all learn the hard way.

aboatguy

Well said, this little pearl of wisdom should be a sticky on every performance website