Id like to buy a stroker kit that would require no clearence machine work, but if this is not possible, what would be a good balanced rotating assembly (with flexplate) to go with if i am going to run the LE2 top end setup?
For all those who already run 383's with the LE2 package, what rotating assembly did you buy and how much did clearencing it cost you?
For all those who already run 383's with the LE2 package, what rotating assembly did you buy and how much did clearencing it cost you?
Banned
That rotating assembly does not exist, although you can get rod bolts from ARP that minmize the cutting needed. They are 1/2 as tall as a regular bolt head.(12 point)
IMO Eagle is the best for the money, also contact Probe Engineering.
David
IMO Eagle is the best for the money, also contact Probe Engineering.
David
Banned
Quote:
Rich
Rich, I said the best for the money, not the best period.Originally Posted by rskrause
Well, we may differ on Eagle but we agree about the non-existence of a stoker kit w/o the need for some clearancing.Rich
David
Moderator
I'd look at the Compstar stuff from Callies for a bang for the buck dilly.
What my primary concern is with a 383 setup, dont i have to have my block machined because of "clearence" issues? or am i completely in the dark about this whole deal?
Moderator
Yes, grinding of the block for clearance is required. Also of course is the necessary machine work to get the rest done right, align hone, bore, deck, etc.
Registered User
Quote:
yes you have to have the block machined. besides the standard boring/honing/etc. machine work, the pan rails and bottom of the cylinders bores are what must be clearnaced. simple work with a die grinder, but necessary nonetheless.Originally Posted by showstoppers-96-Z/28
What my primary concern is with a 383 setup, dont i have to have my block machined because of "clearence" issues? or am i completely in the dark about this whole deal?
*edit* took too long. haha
Registered User
a 3.56 stroke fits,maybe even a 3.65 stroke crank with very minimal grinding, you could do it with a dremal., je makes pistons for both.just make sure you have .060 at least between the crank and side rails, and around any grinds.365 stroke is a good choice, mahle makes some pistons for these strokes in there pro series i think.
Moderator
I dunno why there is so much concern over minor block clearancing. If you aren't comfortable DIY, just have the machine shop do it as it will need to go there anyway (as others have pointed out).
Rich
Rich
Registered User
it only takes about a half hour to clearance for the rods, its not that hard, this is all I had to do to mine with manley H beam rods witch are rather large on the bottom end so it takes more than most 5.7 rods on a 3.750 cranks


Registered User
Quote:
yes they do, just gets old shrinking pics all the time to post, I shrink all the pics I post to 20%, there huge when I take them.Originally Posted by Demus
Nice pics. Those Digital Rebels take nice and sharp shots
ok, well seeing as i know that now, once i have my block i can figure out what i need and want to have done. Thanks for the help and pics