LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

383 Clearencing

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Old Jul 24, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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383 Clearencing

Id like to buy a stroker kit that would require no clearence machine work, but if this is not possible, what would be a good balanced rotating assembly (with flexplate) to go with if i am going to run the LE2 top end setup?
For all those who already run 383's with the LE2 package, what rotating assembly did you buy and how much did clearencing it cost you?
Old Jul 24, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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That rotating assembly does not exist, although you can get rod bolts from ARP that minmize the cutting needed. They are 1/2 as tall as a regular bolt head.(12 point)

IMO Eagle is the best for the money, also contact Probe Engineering.


David
Old Jul 24, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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Well, we may differ on Eagle but we agree about the non-existence of a stoker kit w/o the need for some clearancing.

Rich
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by rskrause
Well, we may differ on Eagle but we agree about the non-existence of a stoker kit w/o the need for some clearancing.

Rich
Rich, I said the best for the money, not the best period.


David
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 08:29 AM
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I'd look at the Compstar stuff from Callies for a bang for the buck dilly.
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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What my primary concern is with a 383 setup, dont i have to have my block machined because of "clearence" issues? or am i completely in the dark about this whole deal?
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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Yes, grinding of the block for clearance is required. Also of course is the necessary machine work to get the rest done right, align hone, bore, deck, etc.
Old Jul 25, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by showstoppers-96-Z/28
What my primary concern is with a 383 setup, dont i have to have my block machined because of "clearence" issues? or am i completely in the dark about this whole deal?
yes you have to have the block machined. besides the standard boring/honing/etc. machine work, the pan rails and bottom of the cylinders bores are what must be clearnaced. simple work with a die grinder, but necessary nonetheless.


*edit* took too long. haha
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 01:23 AM
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a 3.56 stroke fits,maybe even a 3.65 stroke crank with very minimal grinding, you could do it with a dremal., je makes pistons for both.just make sure you have .060 at least between the crank and side rails, and around any grinds.365 stroke is a good choice, mahle makes some pistons for these strokes in there pro series i think.
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 06:15 AM
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I dunno why there is so much concern over minor block clearancing. If you aren't comfortable DIY, just have the machine shop do it as it will need to go there anyway (as others have pointed out).

Rich
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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it only takes about a half hour to clearance for the rods, its not that hard, this is all I had to do to mine with manley H beam rods witch are rather large on the bottom end so it takes more than most 5.7 rods on a 3.750 cranks


Old Jul 26, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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Nice pics. Those Digital Rebels take nice and sharp shots
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Demus
Nice pics. Those Digital Rebels take nice and sharp shots
yes they do, just gets old shrinking pics all the time to post, I shrink all the pics I post to 20%, there huge when I take them.
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 07:40 PM
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ok, well seeing as i know that now, once i have my block i can figure out what i need and want to have done. Thanks for the help and pics
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