87Aerocoupe

97 SS daily driver some strip use looking for 11's n/a 420 rwhp/440 rwtq
Factory 4 bolt LT1 block all machine work done
Scat Cast steel lw crank 3.75" internal balanced
Scat Pro Comp 6" I beam 7/16 rods
Mahle power pac piston kit
GM 847 cam, Crane 99893 spring kit, Rollmaster double roller chain, CC lifters, 1.6 promag rockers.
CSI ewp
Canton 244t pan
Home ported LT1 heads 2.02/1.57 Manley Raceflo SS valves, bronze guides, .026" head gaskets
Home ported LT1 intake,58 mm Holley tb 42# injectors
Pacesetter coated LTs
All ARP hardware
ASP underdrive balancer
LTCC with msd coils
Deleting egr, air pump etc
Mad Z mail order tune to start
Built A4 with 5 pinion planetaries, shift kit and billet everything, 2800 stall
3.73 gears

Airbornec507

I'd consider the LS7 lifters and a 4340 crank at the least. Depending on the flow/quality of the workmanship of the heads 11s are easily attainable with that cam on a properly set up 383. I'd consider a custom grind though. That is an excellent street cam for those cubes.

WS Sick

The scat crank is very nice and it will hold up fine N/A.

The thing I would consider is if the crank is profiled for 5.7 inch rods, it may need to be trimmed to clear the piston skirts.

The heads will keep you from your number unless they are ported correctly.

(Power number not ET number)

SS MPSTR

is block zero-decked?

87Aerocoupe

No the block isn't decked or bored yet, I would do a 4340 crank and custom cam except I also have an all 4340 forged splayed cap 383 being built with the Dart 215's and twin turbos which won't be done til the end of next year probably. This is just a stop gap motor to tide me over until then and seeing as the stock motor is displaying low oil pressure and I have most of the parts lying around collecting dust, I figured I might as well put them to use. Besides I want to see what kind of whp/wtq and et/mph my home ported stuff puts down.

slomarao

the heads will determine a lot. How much time did you spend porting them?

Do you have any exp doing it? Ive seen some good, bad, and so so work from home ported setups. It will be interesting to see how things end up.

Good luck with it.

96capricemgr

To get valves that big in the aluminum you will need new seats, wasted money.
The 5 pinion planetary is NOT any better than the 4pinion, actually it is more troublesome a LOT of guys who jumped on that bandwagon got burned. GM made the switch for cheaper machining, my understanding is the 5pinion is powdered metal where the 4 pinions were forged. Billet stuff is overkill unless this is the tranny you are going to use behind the next motor.

Canton pan is a leaker.

87Aerocoupe

The heads are already done and yes the seats had to be replaced in order to get the valve in, I've had these heads since 98 and when I first did them Manley didn't have the 2.0 valves yet. If the 5 pinions break I'll have the 4 pinions put back in. As for the next setup I'll be using a built T56 or my G-Force street lethal 5 speed trans.

NVetro

Don't cheap out on your bottom end....build it once...you dont know what you'll do in the future....nitrous, larger heads, larger cam, etc.. etc..

Do some callies compstar rods, callies dragonslayer crank,and some JE 4340 pistons... Some people say to go with an eagle crank over a callies but from what i've seen the amount of machine work (mallory metal) that will be needed to get the eagle properly balanced has always been more then the callies and that isn't cheap. So for a few hundred more you can have a real stout crank.

Build it once and forget it :-) Also with the 4 bolt conversion, you can do either stepped or splayed...it costs a little more but do splayed.

87Aerocoupe

Thanks Nverto but I can clear up the confusion, I have two 383s one is in the machine shop now and it's a fully forged, splayed cap build for a turbo setup which won't be finished until the end of 2009.
I also have a 4 bolt LT1 block, canton 244t pan, home ported LT1 heads & intake, 847 cam, comp lifters & 1.6 promag rockers, csi ewp, rollmaster double roller timing set. All sitting around collecting dust and the stock engine in my SS is showing low oil pressure, so I want to put together a low buck 383 and put these other parts to use in the interim until my turbo engine is ready.
By the way which bearings do I use with the Scat 9000 crank, I prefer the coated ones?

bombebomb

I agree 100% build it once, build it right. Atleast for the bottom end (so you do not need to pull engine). As for eagle VS callies, from what iv heard from everyone, eagle is nothing compared to a callies crank.

87Aerocoupe

Thanks guys, I will take all of your excellent advise under consideration before I get the rotating assembly.

WS Sick

On my 4340 Eagle crank they actually had to REMOVE weight to balance it with my set-up.