He was talking about the quench distance you posted originally.

Sounds like you should be good to go on everything else.

 

0.029" is not enough piston to head clearance.

Rich

 

I know, that's why I plan on using the .039 Felpro gasket and keeping the piston .005 in the hole to give me .044 quench just to be safe.

What piston rings should I use with these pistons? Here are the parts:

KB Forged 6.4cc dish pistons: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=UEM-9927030-8
These would come with the wrist pin and locks I assume, right?

Scat forged I-beam 6.0" Rods: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SCA-26000716

 

looks like a good combo you got goin now. you could go with a zero deck with those gaskets but if your goin to hope for pump gas maybe in the future, your really pushing the scr. not too sure about that.

id go .029 gasket, .010 deck height. that way you can swap head gaskets and/or heads later and use pump gas easier. but you got the idea.

 

Please keep the following in mind as you begin talking to your block machining guy about building this motor. With the pistons and rods you have linked in the above quote, and using a 3.750" (i.e. "383") stroker crank, and keeping these pistons .005 "in the hole" ..... your machined block height will be 9.013". Since the "stock" LT1 block height is 9.025" .... this leaves just .012" of material for your block guy to cut in an attempt to "square deck" your block core. If your block core is severely twisted and/or warped, or has been decked in a previous re-build ... so that he needs more than .012" to now "square" it ...... somethings gotta give.

Also, yes ... the pistons should come with the wrist pins and locks if they are "full floating", but, the Summit link really doesn't specifically say they are "full floating" pistons, just full floating or pressed. Call them before you order and make sure they are "full floating" pistons.

 

If his machinist needs more room, he will still be fine with a thicker gasket or with a zero deck and .039" gasket like the felpro. He can even run the pistons proud of the deck if need be with thicker gaskets.

Most pistons of that type are set up for floating or pressed fit, the difference is in the rod end not the pin itself. The grooves for spiralocks or the round wire f1 type locks will not hurt anything wrt to piston strength. Nearly all pistons are supplied with the locks that belong with them, if the wrong ones happen to be used it will frag the engine in fairly short order.

Kirby, I like perfect circle piston rings on those pistons. You don't really need anything exotic here for what you're doing. Sometimes the best thing to do is ask your machinist, he knows what works best for the finish he will leave on the bore. Or if they are good they wall call the ring manufacturer and ask about surface finish and have a profilometer handy to measure the wall after honing.