Thanks fellas. May the best man win. Hahaha. I’ve been reading for a while here and have seen different options, opinions etc.

You guys are great. Looks like I’m going to stretch this build out a couple more months to allow more time for the top end build.

Whats on the table now is do I want to go ahead and install a 4 bolt conversion so that down the road I can boost it.
Most likely I’ll stick with the eagle rotating assembly 2 bolt.
Either way with a set of proper heads,( Afr heads from Lloyd) custom cam and properly ported intake to match heads , matched with the 5cc flat tops I should be somewhere around 12:1
Ill get the cam ground to match the heads etc and I’m told with the proper cam I’ll be able to run on pump gas.
Ive got a sonoco 110 octane pump within 30 miles. Actually the car is sitting with 110 in it now. I thought I was doing something with it. Apparently I was wasting my money
I’ve already got 4:11 gears here, transmission is in the shop getting rebuilt ( 4th gear sync was out) new spec stage 2 clutch , the whole reason my car is dismantled is because clutch was slipping
What do y’all think so far ?
off coarse I’ll be setting up the EFI as directed and have it tuned properly

 

You need do a lot more homework on the head selection. Ported AFR's are outside your stated budget ("$1500 on heads, cam, etc."). Both LE and AI also offer the Trick Flows, in addition to stock heads, but they cost a lot too.:

Advanced Induction - LTx Performance Parts

Sunoco Standard 110 is leaded fuel (if that's what they are pumping). You are damaging your O2 sensors, and the cats (if you still have them). Putting high octane fuel ( 110 (R+M)/2 ) in a stock engine is a huge waste of money.

You said you "live in the mountains". Elevation above sea level reduces the octane requirements, and the power output of an engine. What is the elevation where you live?

Since you indicate you already have 4.11 gears, you should add a "SIGNATURE" so a clear description of your existing setup is available to the people trying to help you:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...nature-879835/

 

I’ve already gutted the cats and will be running long tubes on 3 inch flow.

I’ll be running the car between 1500 -3500 ft elevation

For some reason I stated incorrectly my head choice. I’m getting the Le trickflow from Elliot.
He will supply the cam and port the intake. I’ll follow his suggestions. He will be doing the top end and I’m building the short block as recommended.

The budget has went out the window. It will just prolong the build.

 

Gutted the cats meaning previously so no damage was done. The new exhaust will be straight 3 inch unrestricted flow.

A friend told me I could run the 110 with no cats and it would wake up the car.

I don’t see how it would not but agree it’s a waste.

 

+1 on the leaded fuel killing the O2 sensors (sooner or later, probably sooner)
are you set up to data log and/or tune this thing once it's running? have a wideband O2? Between the elevation and DA changes you're likely to see I suspect it will want some extra attention.
Also curious to see the cam that Lloyd has specced for you, if you care to share the details (not wanting to critique it, just being nosy - I might learn something).

 

I start the short block this week. It will be end of the year when I get to the top end. So I don’t have any specs other than I was told go with le2 heads( or similar) or step up to the trickflow. ( or similar) I’ll surely post details of the top end when the time comes.
Nothing is set in stone.
At this point in the build the tuning seems to be the most questionable.
Ive got a shop that specializes in lt and ls performance that can tune it. I understand that the tuning will be imperative to the performance of the build and life of the build.
Unfortunatly not to many professional engine builders ,tuners ,etc have the time to spend with me.
I will learn. Most importantly not the hard way.
I’ll be researching and identifying all components needed to upgrade or change.
I’m going to stick with the basics.
It’s all more, more, more. I’m not changing parts to change parts.
Simply i would like a top end that utilizes the bottom end. Nothing more and nothing less.
I don’t have to go extreme on the top end.
I’ll have it professionally tuned
I will learn how to tune it myself. It may take years. This is only the beginning.

Im in north ga so I’m open to suggestions on shops for the tune. I’m going to rely on you all that have gone before me. I appreciate all the help.

I’m in no hurry.

 

Sounds like a solid plan (LE top end, pro tune then tweak if needed).
I've only ever had one 'pro tuned' car, and I was less than happy with the result vs. $$$ spent (not an LT1).
My current tuning needs are pretty modest so I went the DIY approach. Gearhead-efi.com is a good resource but a bit of a rabbit hole when they start talking about end of injection timing.
Heard good things about Moehorsepower and Ed Wright for pro tuning options.

 

I believe it will be. What s glorious day it will be when I get to the tuning.
Ive got a few people that I believe will help me if I get the programming software and can do some bartering.
I’ll look into these suggestions you have recommended.

 

maybe get close to 0 deck too

 

here is the build
LPC forged balanced rotating 383
wiseco flat top forged
arp hardware
rather than chase more numbers I’m using lt1 heads 3 way valve job bowl blended
llunati recommendation is 228/234. 478/480 112 for type of driving most likely I’ll keep factory 3:43 gears.
considering hedman long tube headers
I’ll do a can tune. Looking like 30Lb injectors.
ive
I’ll eventually have some numbers one day for all those eager to see. It’s been fun learning should be ready to go by October.

 

My first engine build.

 

“Flat top” pistons? They looked dished? Or is it just the photo?

 

you are correct. Appreciate you pointing that out.

 

what do you think of the cam specs? I know the top end will be weak compared to the bottom but part of the idea is to give me a solid build that I can rev on safely when I’m out on track or street.
i
when I do buy heads for the engine later I’ll get the top end that we all know will make serious power.
Ill be glad to get this car back together. It’s been apart almost a year now.

 

How does that piston dish affect your static compression ratio calculations? Wiseco also adds compression height to some of their pistons to reduce effective deck height.

Is the gross lift on the cam w/ 1.5X or 1.6X rockers? And the heads are stock, except for a "valve job"?

And just to help you make your posts accurate.... the stock gears with the T56 are 3.42:1, not 3:43.